1968 Factory Disc brakes

[dalorzo_f]

+1 on drums being OK for most applications.

Have OEM manual on my GT/CS and while not "great" are more than adequated for general nice-weather around town driving. Look well ahead, drive a little slower, brake a little sooner... no problems...

 

[Ruppstang]

Neil
You must be talking about using a after market booster because if you use the Midlands or Bendex you need to change the pedal and brake switch. It's the same setup for power dics or power drums. I had a 67 6cil Mustang that I added a booster and the drum brakes worked very well even with the small 6cil brakes. Marty

 

[franklinair]

Power Brake Conversion Kit, no pedal modifications required, NPD P/N 2005-23AB, $319.95.
This will be my 3rd conversion for a '68 Mustang, drum brakes. Kit comes with new booster, new dual M/C, adapter link for existing standard brake pedal, utilzes existing brake light switch, no proportioning valve required. Easy installation, much improved braking action.
For a daily or occassionaly driven car this seems to be the most practical approach costwise, coupled with good braking performance.

Neil

 

[retroman99]

excellent thoughts Neil i bought a midland booster and master cycnliner they are being rebuilt as we speak. I could stop there and see if i like it. hadnt really thought about just powering up those old drums

 

[rvrtrash]

3.)Normal/average driving does not require disc brakes, power or non-power.

Neil

Well I guess it all depends on your definition of "normal/average" driving. :wink:

Steve

 

[68 special]

I must have got lucky in my swap to disc brakes. I found a complete set, L & R on c/l for $80, then found a new set of rotors, c/l again for $60, and replaced 1 caliper for $150, $20 for caliper rebuild kit, $40 for cross-over tubes. Already had the booster and proportioning valve. So, less than $400 plus my time, I have disc brakes. I did it for the safetey aspect more than anything. Best investment I've made. My .02 worth.


Bret

 

[Mosesatm]

What is a cross-over tube?

 

[clubpro]

Arlie,

They are the lines that run from one side of the caliper to the other.

Cheers,

Ron

 

[Ruppstang]

That is a 1967 4 puck Kelsy Hayes system.

 

[retroman99]

Booster problem so i got the booster and MC but the booster didnt have the rod that goes between the MC and booster. I got the plate and the brake pedal connecting rod but no push rod. Rebuild shop didnt have any laying around guy i bought the booster and MC from told me that that they were plentyful. Well now i have nice rebuilt unit but no push rod any leads on where i can pick one up without having to buy a complete booster

 

[franklinair]

I'll check my stash tomorrow. I MAY have what you need.

Neil

 

[franklinair]

Is this the PB part you need?

Neil

 

[68 special]

Marti is correct on the kelsey-Hayes 4 puck system. Guess I should have added that little tidbit of info. Chose that because it all bolts right up to the '68 drum spindles so I didn't have to mess with swapping them. I'm really happy with the system.

Bret

 

[retroman99]

Is this the PB part you need?

Neil

it looks like it. but not sure exact dimensions do you know if that came from a Midland booster? i have seen on other posts that it is adjustable but i have not ever touched or seen one first hand

 

[franklinair]

I'll check the P/B type tomorrow. The rod length IS adjustable- note the capnut on the end of the rod.

Neil

PS:
HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

 

[franklinair]

The rod is from a Midland PB booster. If you want it, PM me your mailing address and its yours. Consider it a belated Birthday present!!

Neil

 

[ggieras]

go to chockerstang.com great informative site,owner is real nice as well,if you call them he will tell you the original setup depending on what year you have,good luck.

 

[ggieras]

correction on that website,it is chockostang.com,sorry for the confusion,its been a while