1968 Ignition switch wiring help

[cmacias24]

Hi fellas,
I'm in a bit of a jam and I hope someone can help me out. I purchased a ignition switch repair harness from NPD for my car because I noticed some bad connectors when I was removing the EFI system from my car (the mechanic had tapped into the switch wires). I also suspected that some loose wires on the switch were the cause of my rear parking lights not turning on. That said, today I took apart my instrument panel, removed the switch and cut the wires at the connector level. When I was doing that, I noticed all the wires had crimp connectors, which I can only assume it had been repaired at one time, unless they were crimped at the factory. All that said, I've figured out that the repair kit I have is not the correct one, because it lacks the resistor wire. WCCC sells one that matches the wire colors on my car, but I want to confirm my assumptions. I've attached some pictures of my car's wires, a side by side shot of the old and new pigtails, a mockup of the WCCC pigtails and my car's wires. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Cesar

 

[Ruppstang]

Cesar your harness has been repaired at one time because there should be no splices. The pictures you posted are so small my old eyes can not see them but there should be a pink resister wire. I would never recommend crimp splices. It is always better to use solder and heat shrink. The resistor wire is a pink wire with a steel core. If that is cut it is difficult to solder. If memory servers it turn in to a green with a red stripe wire. If you are using Pertonix and not points you could cut out the ballast resistor and replace it with a copper wire that is much easier to solder.
Hope this helps.
Marty

 

[cmacias24]

The wife and kids finally gave me some time to tackle this. I took your advice Marty, and went the solder route. I purchased some heat shrinking solder connectors and it worked quite well. Thanks for the help!

Cesar

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[Ruppstang]

Great, nothing like a problem fixed!