1968 J-Code GT/CS Restoration Thread

[x-codegtcs]

OK guys, a few weeks have passed since the last photos, so here are some new ones showing progress...It has been slow go the last couple weeks with football starting and "speed bumps" AKA research has been going on. Let me know your thoughts. Bryce

 

[6t8-390gt]

Looking good! Master Cylinder and cap should be painted semi-gloss black to be factory correct; but you can leave it if you choose. You've done a lot of nice detailing for a car you plan to drive! Keep up the work! I would also suggest getting some undercoating/ sealer on the firewall before you install your engine. Basically, any screw through the firewall would be sprayed with sealer to prevent water intrusion.

Danny

 

[x-codegtcs]

Danny - Thanks! I keep forgetting to order the dang sealant each time I place the order with NPD! UGH!!! I wish I had known the master cylindar was black, I have already treated with a rust proof waxy kind of stuff and so getting it clean is not going to happen now, so I will just have to leave it at this point.

 

[franklinair]

I like the metal MC & anodized cap myself. Perhaps not MCA correct, but it looks better IMHO. :smile:

Neil

 

[dalorzo_f]

Very nice work. Should the PS Ram be natural or SGB? Have seen both and not sure which is correct.

 

[gt/csj4]

Very nice work. Should the PS Ram be natural or SGB? Have seen both and not sure which is correct.

interesting point... come to think of it I have seen both as well. Wonder if it's a
build plant- type difference? Gold card judges wanna chime in?

 

[J_Speegle]

Very nice work. Should the PS Ram be natural or SGB? Have seen both and not sure which is correct.

Originally the ram was bare steel but there are a number of different metals and processes used to make up the ram. Basically you have a bare steel tube welded to the ends which are a darker bare steel.

These were welded together so you should have the bluing of the center tube and the weld where the ends attach

To reproduce I use the same practice as on drivelines with the gun bluing and some steel wool. Then you have to dull the tube down (looks too shiny in the picture below) Also note that they are dated if you care about those sort of details




BTW (of others since this car is past that stage) the rear wheel wells would have had more (read nice coat of paint) on the exposed frame rails in the rear wheelwells. All a by product of painting the rear quarter panel and passing an open flowing paint gun over the opening. What we see in this example makes it appear that the painter painter the rear wheel well stopping at the edge allowing some overspray onto the frame rail

Just wanted to point that out for others that may be attempting it in the future

 

[dalorzo_f]

Jeff, so in picture 3 there should be almost no red oxide visible?

 

[J_Speegle]

Jeff, so in picture 3 there should be almost no red oxide visible?

Typically from that viewing angle - no


Here is an example from the 160180 period. The direct/overspray application on the trunk drop (where the gas tank mounts up is very typical)

 

[x-codegtcs]

I looked and looked for photos for the correct finish on this! Dang! Good to know for the next one.

 

[robert campbell]

Not sure how low you plan to go with this car, but the 235's on the front are a bit large. I like my cars low, but even at stock height these may rub. I would suggest 215's or even 205's.

Again, all about the stance you want. Some people will claim even large tires, but their car is pretty high in the front. And the brand new components need time to settle in. They are very high right off the bat. Both front and back. In my opinion.

What you need is yourself and four 250 pounders in the car for a nice long drive!!! I can be one of them!!!

Rob

 

[x-codegtcs]

Rob - I am a bit worried about the rubbing... I used this size because a buddy with a 390 GT has them and it looked about right - they were on 15" rims though - so we will see. I hope you are wrong (the only time I will say that)!!! If you ever come out to Utah - that would be a welcomed visit!

 

[dalorzo_f]

225's are big on the front. On my 68 S GT coupe the PO had them and they had rub marks from hitting the UCA.

205's






215's

 

[J_Speegle]

I looked and looked for photos for the correct finish on this! Dang! Good to know for the next one.

Searching isn't a problem IF you find another example from the same plant and time period. When you can't find (and never hurts to ask for another example) simply ask. Believe everyone would rather help before than inform you after

Don't check this site more than once or twice a week but if you need - you know where to ask Lots of site .... not enough time

 

[x-codegtcs]

OK guys - I have been absent for a while...we are finally getting settled in North Carolina. Not a lot of time to get on here...all work and no play...

Anyway, progress on the car though...here is a vid of the car with motor running and exhaust in place. A bit tame for Rob, but plenty for the street rat in me.

http://youtu.be/A0sKHVjHciQ

 

[Ruppstang]

OK guys - I have been absent for a while...we are finally getting settled in North Carolina. Not a lot of time to get on here...all work and no play...

Anyway, progress on the car though...here is a vid of the car with motor running and exhaust in place. A bit tame for Rob, but plenty for the street rat in me.

http://youtu.be/A0sKHVjHciQ

Very nice job! All that trouble and frustration seems to melt a way when you get to hear them run.
Congrats Marty

 

[Sarge]

Really Cool! I hope mine grows up one day to look half as nice as yours does... Congratulations. Robert

 

[x-codegtcs]

Thanks Marty and Robert - when it is running, a lot of frustration just melts away! Just a few more things and then DRIVE!!!