Do any of you have the measurements on the hood where the hood locks are placed? I just bought a used hood and drilled all the spot welds out to pull the skin off. I've done all the body work on it, and I'm ready to patch the previous hood pin holes(not gtcs). But maybe they are put in the right place. Can anyone help? Thanks.
COMMUNITY
1968 GT/CS & HCS
2007+ GT/CS
1966-1967 HCS
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Measurements
- Thread starter kevin
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68sunlitgold
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Kevin,
the center of the holes should be 5" from the edge, and the top hole is 9/16" in diameter and the underside is 2 1/2". There is a picture of what the underside should look like in the new photo gallery. Another good way to determine the holes is where the hood bumpers would hit if they where attached to the grille support like original mustangs (remember the CS moves these bumbers to the second fender bolts). I hope this helps
Doug
the center of the holes should be 5" from the edge, and the top hole is 9/16" in diameter and the underside is 2 1/2". There is a picture of what the underside should look like in the new photo gallery. Another good way to determine the holes is where the hood bumpers would hit if they where attached to the grille support like original mustangs (remember the CS moves these bumbers to the second fender bolts). I hope this helps
Doug
StraightSix
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Kevin, I can grab the measurements from several points on the hood for you tonight.
When I drilled my hood for locks, I had trouble finding a 9/16 inch metal drill bit so I used a 1/2 inch. If you find yourself in that situation, the 1/2 inch hole is still big enough. Since a metal washer is affixed over the hole on the top, you would have to measure with a ruler on the underside to even be able to tell a difference.
-Winston
When I drilled my hood for locks, I had trouble finding a 9/16 inch metal drill bit so I used a 1/2 inch. If you find yourself in that situation, the 1/2 inch hole is still big enough. Since a metal washer is affixed over the hole on the top, you would have to measure with a ruler on the underside to even be able to tell a difference.
-Winston
cmacias24
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I have a question, since I'll have my body man do mine ass well next month. Now, the top hole seems a bit large on that picture but it is covered by the plate on top. I just bought some locks from california mustangs and how reliable is the adhesive on the plate?
StraightSix
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Cesar,
Yeah, the hole in that pic does look a bit large. Maybe somebody drilled it a little larger to get the alignment right -- it looks like the lock stud is right on the edge of that hole.
As for the strength of the washer adhesive, my kit from Sacramento Mustang (Scott Drake repro) has extremely tough adhesive. I know, because I had to pry one washer off after a misalignment the first time! Don't worry, they won't fall off!
-Winston
Yeah, the hole in that pic does look a bit large. Maybe somebody drilled it a little larger to get the alignment right -- it looks like the lock stud is right on the edge of that hole.
As for the strength of the washer adhesive, my kit from Sacramento Mustang (Scott Drake repro) has extremely tough adhesive. I know, because I had to pry one washer off after a misalignment the first time! Don't worry, they won't fall off!
-Winston
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Are we all talking about this pic?
That's my HCS and I'm pretty sure it has not been messed with. It's possible, but I bought it from the original owner and he doesn't seem the type to mess with it. (he didn't mess with anything else) It could have been in a wreck (although he said it had not) but there's no other evidence of any front damage.
I think maybe the problem is partly the angle the pic was taken. The pin looks off-center, but isn't. I'll shoot another few pics tonight and upload them if it would help.
That's my HCS and I'm pretty sure it has not been messed with. It's possible, but I bought it from the original owner and he doesn't seem the type to mess with it. (he didn't mess with anything else) It could have been in a wreck (although he said it had not) but there's no other evidence of any front damage.
I think maybe the problem is partly the angle the pic was taken. The pin looks off-center, but isn't. I'll shoot another few pics tonight and upload them if it would help.
StraightSix
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Yeah, more pics would help 
From that angle, it looks way off center -- which also makes the hole look bigger. Jon, could you measure the diameter of the hole as well?
-Winston
From that angle, it looks way off center -- which also makes the hole look bigger. Jon, could you measure the diameter of the hole as well?-Winston
68sunlitgold
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The underside hole should be around 2 1/2" in diameter.
Doug
Doug
cmacias24
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Yes that is the picture. The first hole on the top of the hood seems a bit large. Also the rod, or pin is not centered on the picture. Now the large hole on the underside of the hood looks fine. It's no biggy, but I was wondering if I make the hole too big if I will regret it later since the hole is too big and the adhesive on the plate will give out. Now I was thinking, if I make the hole the exact same size as the hole on the plate the pin on the lock will stop on the hood and not the plate itself.
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Ahh...now I see. Yes, the pin is not centered on the upper hole and yes the upper hole looks larger than 9/16".
I had to primer my hood and took the pins off. The pic was taken before re-securing the washer on top of the hood that covers this hole, which is why it's not centered.
Again, I'm 99% sure this is factory original but there's always that 1% chance.
I'll try to look tonight and see if that top hole appears like it was stamped (ie. factory) or drilled (ie. dealer/bodyshop)
I had to primer my hood and took the pins off. The pic was taken before re-securing the washer on top of the hood that covers this hole, which is why it's not centered.
Again, I'm 99% sure this is factory original but there's always that 1% chance.
I'll try to look tonight and see if that top hole appears like it was stamped (ie. factory) or drilled (ie. dealer/bodyshop)
StraightSix
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Jon, I'm pretty sure the top holes were drilled from the factory, not stamped out. Also, I'm pretty sure the hole saw was their instrument of choice for the bottom hole.
-Winston
-Winston
StraightSix
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I just uploaded a schematic to the gallery that depicts the measurements I used to drill my hood locks. For me, the extra 3/16 inch to the edge was necessary on both sides. I drilled for 5 inches the first time on one side and discovered that it wasn't quite enough, forcing me to elongate the hole over 3/16 of an inch :-\ Then, I drilled the other side for 5 3/16 inches and it was perfect. I also added another reference point.
Hopefully this will keep someone else from having to do any hole elongation.
-Winston
Hopefully this will keep someone else from having to do any hole elongation.
-Winston
68sunlitgold
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Winston,
Great picture of the measurements, can't get any easier and accurate than that.
Doug
Great picture of the measurements, can't get any easier and accurate than that.
Doug
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[quote author=StraightSix link=board=1;threadid=222;start=0#1069 date=1045708119]
Jon, I'm pretty sure the top holes were drilled from the factory, not stamped out. Also, I'm pretty sure the hole saw was their instrument of choice for the bottom hole.
-Winston
[/quote]
Yes, you're correct. The Registry notes that these hoods all started off as stock Mustang units and were factory modified after paint, which would rule out stamping the holes. Also I looked at mine more closely and the bottom was definitely drilled out with a hole saw (not completely deburred)
I uploaded more pics to the Gallery with several shots of my hood locks, mounts, holes and measurements.
http://www.californiaspecial.com/photogallery/album01
My top holes are 7/8" vs. the 9/16" called for in the 1996 Registry. My bottom holes are 2 1/2". The distance of the top hole from the side edge of the hood is right in between the two other measurements given by others in this post; about 5 1/8"
Jon, I'm pretty sure the top holes were drilled from the factory, not stamped out. Also, I'm pretty sure the hole saw was their instrument of choice for the bottom hole.
-Winston
[/quote]
Yes, you're correct. The Registry notes that these hoods all started off as stock Mustang units and were factory modified after paint, which would rule out stamping the holes. Also I looked at mine more closely and the bottom was definitely drilled out with a hole saw (not completely deburred)
I uploaded more pics to the Gallery with several shots of my hood locks, mounts, holes and measurements.
http://www.californiaspecial.com/photogallery/album01
My top holes are 7/8" vs. the 9/16" called for in the 1996 Registry. My bottom holes are 2 1/2". The distance of the top hole from the side edge of the hood is right in between the two other measurements given by others in this post; about 5 1/8"
I don't think the size of the hole will affect that.
