1968 Pointless Distributors

[Mosesatm]

My next upgrade is a new distributor and I'm leaning towards the Mallory 3755101.

I like it because it doesn't require a separate box but I have a few questions for which I hope some of you will offer your usual great advice.

- The distributor comes with or without vacuum advance. Is there any advantage to vacuum advance? I'll be using it for normal driving, not racing it.

- Which pickup is better, optical or magnetic?

- Is the Mallory unit a good distributor is is there a better option?

Thanks for your help!

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie,
I have this distributor in my wife’s 67 Fastback. It has run flawless for over ten years. No reason to doubt its dependability!! I have a Mallory “E”-series in the clone mobile!!

Vacuum vice no vacuum advance: Vacuum advance is an aid for stock engines to cure flat spots, obtain max gas mileage and give good performance. Don’t start me on emission control distributors! In cars with aftermarket cams, the vacuum signal can be a bit erratic for a vacuum advance distributor. As people strive for max performance they can overlook mileage and smooth performance. This is not to say that lack of a vacuum advance will ruin the smoothness of an engine.

My thoughts is if you have headers, aftermarket heads, and aftermarket carbs, and like performance then go mechanical and eliminate the vacuum advance in the distributor. This is me. I like to increase initial timing to 15 to 18 degrees and let the rest be handled by centrifugal advance. No flat spots, awesome performance!

But I have a license plate that says “There is more to life than gas mileage” I am just finishing a nice robust dark beer….

Rob

 

[franklinair]

What engine are we talking about here? And is it 'stock', 'modified', or 'performance'?
If it's a plain-jane small block (like I have) and is only driven occasionally & mildly (like I do) then I'd only O/H the stock distributor & go with Pertronix (like I did). However, if you're looking for performance, then the Mallory (mech advance) is the way to go (like Rob did).

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

I am going to suggest something different.

Stick with the Autolite distributor. Get it rebuilt by a competent person that takes into consideration your cars specifications and your style of driving.

Keep the vacuum advance, older engines will tend to run hotter if they only have a mechanical advance.

Install the Pertronix II or III, be sure to hook it up to full 12v.

 

[joedls]

If you're set on an electronic distributor, here is the one I used :
MSD E-Curve. This distributor allows you to set your rev limiter and advance curves by merely popping the cap and turning a couple of dials. It's kind of pricey, but if you're patient you can find a deal.

 

[robert campbell]

If you're set on an electronic distributor, here is the one I used :
MSD E-Curve. This distributor allows you to set your rev limiter and advance curves by merely popping the cap and turning a couple of dials. It's kind of pricey, but if you're patient you can find a deal.

I have the "E" Mallory in my GNS. Has some pre-packaged curves and software to program infinite curves like Joe said. The rev limiter is a must to me. With this setup you do not have to have a stand alone rev limiter!

Rob

 

[di81977]

I initially went with a Ford Duraspark II system when I put a new motor in my car. Easy upgrade from stock.

Felt I needed better performance and last year found a deal at Summit. I bought a Mallory Comp S/S series distributor (mechanical advance), Coil, 8MM Wires, ignition control box w/rev limiter - all as a kit for $480 less $100 rebate.

It is working out very well for me. Measurable improvement at the track just from the distributor/coil upgrade.

david

 

[dpheyes]

I've decided to go with the stock distributor and the Pertronix Igniter II or III with a Flamethrower II coil. I'll keep the single vaccuum advance, but I have a related question:

The pink resistor wire in my under-dash harness appears to be fried (melted and broken in several spots). Do I replace this with a straight, non-resistive wire for the Pertronix? I've seen mention of that in places, but no clear directions. I haven't installed the harness yet, and am currently cleaning and rewrapping it.

The pink wire being fried might explain the ballast resistor I found on the firewall when I disassembled the car. My guess is that this replaced the pink wire??

Doug

 

[Mosesatm]

I've decided to go with the stock distributor and the Pertronix Igniter II or III with a Flamethrower II coil. I'll keep the single vaccuum advance, but I have a related question:

The pink resistor wire in my under-dash harness appears to be fried (melted and broken in several spots). Do I replace this with a straight, non-resistive wire for the Pertronix? I've seen mention of that in places, but no clear directions. I haven't installed the harness yet, and am currently cleaning and rewrapping it.

The pink wire being fried might explain the ballast resistor I found on the firewall when I disassembled the car. My guess is that this replaced the pink wire??

Doug

To be 100% positive you get the correct answer a quick note or call to the Pertronix people may be prudent.

 

[di81977]

Another thing to consider, and I am going out on a limb here so correct me if I am wrong, is that a stock tach will not work with electronic/aftermarket ignition system.

david

 

[joedls]

Another thing to consider, and I am going out on a limb here so correct me if I am wrong, is that a stock tach will not work with electronic/aftermarket ignition system.

david

I had to get an adaptor from MSD to make mine work, I believe.

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie,
Do you have a stock tach?

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Arlie,
Do you have a stock tach?

Rob

Don't have a tach.

 

[franklinair]

Arlie; if you're going with a modified/performance engine, I think your idea of the Mallory would work fine, or Joe's suggestion of the MSD. Rob agrees with either choice, depending on your preference & requirements. I can't weigh in on this as I don't know what engine & performance level you'll be running.

Doug; the Pertronix likes the full 12 volts. If the pink wire is fried, don't worry with it. From what you wrote earlier it's probably already been bypassed, with 12 volts going to a ballast resistor. There are a couple places to pick up the 12 volts unobtrusively. I chose to pick it up @ the connector that has the neutral/safety switch circuit, located at the firewall, aft of the left valve cover. It's the square, 4 pin connector. I used 18 gage wire (black insulation- less visible). I stripped the wire back about 1/4", separated the connector, found which pin was hot with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. Then inserted the stripped wire into the female socket and put the connector back together- which secures the wire for the new 12 volt source for the coil. Ran the new wire along the existing engine harness, over to the coil. It's virtually invisible, and you'll have the required 12 volts for the Pertronix coil.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Arlie; if you're going with a modified/performance engine, I think your idea of the Mallory would work fine, or Joe's suggestion of the MSD. Rob agrees with either choice, depending on your preference & requirements. I can't weigh in on this as I don't know what engine & performance level you'll be running.


Neil

The engine is only slightly modified. It is a '66 4V engine with the stock heads, bored 60, and fitted with a Melling 2412 cam (Lift=288, Gross lift=461, Duration=298). Stock exhaust manifolds, Edelbrock Performer intake with a Holley 570.

 

[rvrtrash]

I stripped the wire back about 1/4", separated the connector, found which pin was hot with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. Then inserted the stripped wire into the female socket and put the connector back together- which secures the wire for the new 12 volt source for the coil.

Neil

Neil, Neil, Neil. I'm buying you a soldering iron and some watertight heat shrink tubing for Christmas.

Steve

 

[franklinair]

No thanks. To solder, you'd have to cut & splice into a perfectly good harness. By capturing the wire in the connector it is secure, insulated, and easily removed if necessary or if you wish to go back to the original configuration with no trace of modification or damage to the original wire harness. Works for me ;-)

Neil