Power brake conversion

[JohnnyQuest515]

Curious how many have done a Power Brake Conversion to a non PB car and non disk too !

Thanks, Randy

 

[case12]

Disc brakes on the front make a world of difference. There are kits out there that have every nut and bolt to do it. I did it on my CS and am happy. You have to be careful with power "booster" as I am told that doesnt work as well as just adding disc brakes to the front. I am happy with the stopping of the discs on the front and I am running a 347 stroker (still takes some leg muscle, but much, much better than drums). Casey

 

[CougarCJ]

I have done the disc brake conversion too.
Put 1970 disc brakes on my 1968 Cougar. Used everything from one donor car.
You have to be very careful when collecting disc brake parts. Mixing of years can potentially create installation problems.

 

[hookedtrout]

Is the process pretty easy to accomplish, back yard mechanics go for it? Any specialty tools needed? I've been debating on changing mine by purchasing a kit. Any kit's that come highly recomended.

Cory

 

[franklinair]

I opted to stay with drum brakes, using the P/B Booster kit from NPD, their P/N 2005-23AB, $319.95. The kit comes with a brake pedal adapter so you don't have to replace the brake pedal assembly. Also get the manifold vacuum fitting, P/N 9A474-5, $41.95. I installed this setup in my 302, A/T and it works GREAT.

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

Mostly hand tools to do the conversion.

You will need to change spindles, takes a splitter fork and big hammer.

I reused the hard lines. You would need a tubing bender and flaring tool if you make your own. Stay away from stainless steel lines if you go this route.

I recommend pulling the trigger and going ahead and rebuild the front suspension while you are changing the spindles. Of course this means you would also need to borrow a coil spring compressor.

If using Granada or 1970 Mustang/Cougar disc brakes you have to additionally change out the outer tie rod ends.

 

[hookedtrout]

Thanks Cougar, I just recently had the whole front end rebuilt so it should be good, should have had them put in the disc's while I had them work it over.

Cory

 

[HappyHour]

Im in the same boat...didnt have the funds\time to do the conversion when I did the front and rear end but will get the kit at some point.

I do like putting weight to thedrums though...Im sure that will change when some foolio gets in my way and I have to brake suddenly.

:wink:

 

[68 special]

I also added the power booster from NPD. Got it off of Ebay for $125, new in the wrapper. It works great with no pedal change.

Bret

 

[joedls]

I put Granada front discs on my 65 convertible. It wasn't difficult, although I wish I had purchased a kit, because chasing down all the little parts was a big pain. Make sure your wheels work with whatever hub you are using. I seem to remember having some problems with the Granada hubs and my 15" wheels. I think I ended up using a hub and rotor from a 71 Mustang. Can't remember, though.

 

[hookedtrout]

My neighbor does car restoration and mechanical work, great guy but his business is suffering due to the economy. He has approached me about getting my car started down the path of restoration to help him out with some work, I'm not ready to do the whole thing but to help out I've told him I'd be willing to start on a few things. One of his specialties is custom brakes. I've told him we could start with a disc brake conversion.

Two Questions,

First, should I do both front and rear?

Second, how much should I expect to be charged for the job? I see kits for both front and rear around $1300.

Thanks, Cory

 

[CougarCJ]

I only feel that front disc brakes are necessary, if given a choice.

If a rear brake system upgrade is needed, I would suggest installing the wider 2" or 2-1/4" wide drum brakes. Easy conversion, involves backing plates, drums, and brake shoes.

Rear disc brakes conversions on our older cars have the inherent emergency brake hook up problem. Those that do try to make it functional find it difficult or nearly impossible to make it function correctly. Some opt for a line lock, but those are prone to bleed down.

 

[hookedtrout]

I only feel that front disc brakes are necessary, if given a choice.

If a rear brake system upgrade is needed, I would suggest installing the wider 2" or 2-1/4" wide drum brakes. Easy conversion, involves backing plates, drums, and brake shoes.

Rear disc brakes conversions on our older cars have the inherent emergency brake hook up problem. Those that do try to make it functional find it difficult or nearly impossible to make it function correctly. Some opt for a line lock, but those are prone to bleed down.

Thanks for the input, my gut feel was that the rear wasn't needed but your adding some specifics makes it even more valid. I do know I don't like the front drums. Any idea on what it should cost?

Cory

 

[p51]

Since most (~70%?) of the stopping power comes from the front brakes I also did front disc conversion only. World of difference. Best safety feature you could add to your 68 GT/CS.

BTW:
IMO other safety feature to add
(1) Headrests
(2) Very bright rear brake lights (to gets others' attention)

James

 

[hookedtrout]

Since most (~70%?) of the stopping power comes from the front brakes I also did front disc conversion only. World of difference. Best safety feature you could add to your 68 GT/CS.

BTW:
IMO other safety feature to add
(1) Headrests
(2) Very bright rear brake lights (to gets others' attention)

James

Thanks, Can anyone offer a suggestion on a good kit to use (tried and true), I don't want to lose the ability to use my current 14" Styled Steel wheels. I'm communicating with the mechanic and I told him I'd find out what has worked from those that have done the conversion.

Cory

 

[CougarCJ]

I can't help with pricing.

I am doing a disc brake conversion right now on my GT/CS.
No recommendations for aftermarket kits, mine have been solely recycled OEM Ford parts.
My parts have come from 1968-70 Mercury Cougar's that I have parted.

 

[rvrtrash]

I would go with factory stuff also, if for no other reason, somewhere down the road you might need parts and there are a ton of reproduction parts houses for the factory set up. I would be willing to start tracking down the stuff you need to convert, and help you do the work for free if you want to drive up some weekend. I have all the right tools and have rebuilt more front ends than I care to admit.

Steve

 

[hookedtrout]

I would go with factory stuff also, if for no other reason, somewhere down the road you might need parts and there are a ton of reproduction parts houses for the factory set up. I would be willing to start tracking down the stuff you need to convert, and help you do the work for free if you want to drive up some weekend. I have all the right tools and have rebuilt more front ends than I care to admit.

Steve

Thanks for the offer Steve but I'm going to be lucky if I get any weekend to myself the balance of the summer.

To clarify what you guys are suggesting, we should find a donor car with the parts we need and then upgrade with those donor parts to keep it all Ford original equipment. That makes sense, suggestions on the best application?

 

[CougarCJ]

Disc brake spindles from a 1970 Mustang or Cougar are stronger than 1968-69 spindles. That is what I am using.:grin:

It was fortunate that I got a 1970 disc brake conversion in with the parts that came with my GT/CS.

Bought new rotors, rebuilt calipers, master cylinder, and brake booster. I also bought new front brake line hoses, and hard lines from NPD. I supplied the correct disc brake pedal. In my case it is a 1970 Cougar disc brake pedal, it matches the booster rod in my rebuilt brake booster.
*It is very important that these two parts match. Disc brake pedal and push rod.

It is easier to install everything if you have the correct pedal hanging bracket for disc brakes, in your case one from a 1967-68.

Shopping list of parts to get from a donor car.

• Spindles - complete with backing plates and caliper brackets.
• Hard Brake Lines - Everything from the master cylinder to both front wheels, including the proportioning valve
• Calipers - Use for cores and get rebuilt ones
• Master cyliner - use for core - get rebuilt one
• Brake booster - Unless you know it is in good shape - use for core. (remove spacer bracket to fire wall and save) Booster Dewey in Oregon is the cheapest. They can taylor make the booster to match which ever disc brake pedal you get.
• Disc brake pedal and hanging bracket. Get the bracket from the disc brake car because it won't have all of the nut certs for installing the booster

With my 1970 conversion, I had to drill one hole for the bottom bolt on the booster. Also had to enlarge the round hole for the push rod boot. Not sure if this is necessary if using 1968-69 disc brakes.

You are best off getting all of these parts from either a Mustang or Cougar, and all from the same year. Pretty sure there could be brake line fittings with different sizes for those years. Disc brake pedal must come from a Cougar or Mustang.

 

[Mustanger]

If you want to opt for a complete aftermarket kit, then take a look at Wilwood, SSBC or MPB ... I know that SSBC has a kit that'll fit 14" wheels, I'm not sure about MPB ... I have MPB but I have 15" wheels ...