For Sale Project: Presidential Blue C-code $15,900, Los Angeles area

[cmacias24]

Saw this on Craigslist in case someone is interested.

“A Factory 1968 California Special 289CI Automatic. Original From Los Angeles & owner drove it over to Arizona in 1975. Now is back in L.A. Off The Road since 1987 but the engine does crank over.

Factory Presidential Blue w/ Black Interior. Factory Lucas Lights still in place. Solid original body- ready to restore. Bring a trailer

Clear AZ title “

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/d/la-habra-barn-find-1968-ford-mustang/7546695355.html


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[CaliStang68]

It doesn't seem bad for the price. Seen way worse at this price.

 

[Ricky Knapik]

Looks like very good bones. Wish there were some underbody pics!

 

[franklinair]

Wrong hood, strange radiator & brackets. I see $12K minimum in paint/body, plus another $12K in parts.

Neil

 

[1wrenchguy]

Hello GT/CS family. Finally able to reply and post after many attempts.

I went to see this vehicle as it was local. There is some rust in the inner/outer rear wheelhouse and rear fenders on both sides. What would something like this cost in hours/labor?

I've taken some pics on my google link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jix7qQQjrwZXIy6MGaeNSgBlNdQGIru1/view?usp=sharing

Not the original radiator, neutral safety switch in engine compartment, overall shadetree mechanic mickey mouse repairs.

What do you guys think?

 

[Mosesatm]

Only one photo shows up when I click on the link.

 

[1wrenchguy]

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uFwQfVfeT5qct7aKblI2JsR1X_5Q9KDS?usp=sharing

 

[1wrenchguy]

Only one photo shows up when I click on the link.

My mistake. Here it is, what do you think? The more I think about it (neutral safety switch dangling in the engine bay, poor bondo job (Driver side scoop that fell off) screw holes to pull hood dent. I'm thinking it has had many years of incorrectly done repairs.

It's been a while since I've been around early mustangs. Just would like to know what I'm getting into at that price.. Looking to join the GT/CS club and getting back behind a mustang.

 

[Mosesatm]

That needs a total rebuild. I think it’s a $12K car.

 

[1wrenchguy]

That needs a total rebuild. I think it’s a $12K car.

Same thoughts. Thanks for your assessment. The wheelhouse on both sides along with both fenders need attention. Would your R&R the whole inner/outer wheel housing and fender section or patch?

 

[franklinair]

If I were 10 years younger, I'd be hard-pressed to buy this CS for more than $5K. It needs EVERYTHING.
To bring it up to an acceptable level (my standards, not concourse) I would estimate $30K cost in parts with me doing most of the work (I only have paint/bodywork and upholstery farmed out): sheet metal, rust repair/treatment, engine, electrical, transmission, suspension, interior, paint, and on & on & on.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Same thoughts. Thanks for your assessment. The wheelhouse on both sides along with both fenders need attention. Would your R&R the whole inner/outer wheel housing and fender section or patch?

I wouldn’t buy the car, but if that’s not an option it depends on how correctly you want it fixed. I drive my cars so unfortunately I’m good with the minimum repairs to make the car sound and dependable (Marty probably just spat coffee all over his monitor).
If you can do your own work go for making it 100% correct, but if you’re hiring a shop you’ll be upside down in a hurry.

 

[1wrenchguy]

If I were 10 years younger, I'd be hard-pressed to buy this CS for more than $5K. It needs EVERYTHING.
To bring it up to an acceptable level (my standards, not concourse) I would estimate $30K cost in parts with me doing most of the work (I only have paint/bodywork and upholstery farmed out): sheet metal, rust repair/treatment, engine, electrical, transmission, suspension, interior, paint, and on & on & on.

Neil

Thanks Neil, I agree. Funny how things change, 10yrs maybe even 15, I had the drive to work on things. Perhaps if I just retired already. The fact is I work so much that I'd have to farm it out, the majority of it. I'm ok with that but yes even 12K is a hard pill to swallow.

 

[1wrenchguy]

I wouldn’t buy the car, but if that’s not an option it depends on how correctly you want it fixed. I drive my cars so unfortunately I’m good with the minimum repairs to make the car sound and dependable (Marty probably just spat coffee all over his monitor).
If you can do your own work go for making it 100% correct, but if you’re hiring a shop you’ll be upside down in a hurry.

I hear you loud and clear. I also am a believer in driving my cars. I already know I'll be upside down in a hurry as I might/will get flamed on here from what I would change. I know it's sacrilege to purists as to modding the vehicle away from factory.

First musts are the suspension and brakes. Can't continue to enjoy it if can't turn or stop.

 

[CougarCJ]

That is a later model 302 engine, not the original 289.

I agree with Neil with the cost to make this one into a Neil built (non-concours) GT/CS.

Neil style, restored GT/CS's, are the preferred alternative to concours. Just me speaking, no flaming. I like his tasteful upgrades that allow the car to be daily driven and shown. Reliability with day two modifications.

 

[1wrenchguy]

That is a later model 302 engine, not the original 289.

I agree with Neil with the cost to make this one into a Neil built (non-concours) GT/CS.

Neil style, restored GT/CS's, are the preferred alternative to concours. Just me speaking, no flaming. I like his tasteful upgrades that allow the car to be daily driven and shown. Reliability with day two modifications.

Eagle eyes.. What are the distinguishing visual differences on the small block that you can see. It's been over 28yrs since I've had my early mustang.

I'm with Neil style. Cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed!

 

[Mosesatm]

I didn’t notice, either. I’m guessing the crank pulley or the dipstick?

 

[CougarCJ]

Yes, 4 bolt crank pulley is 1970 and later. Also valve covers are newer style design.