1968 Purchase

[LimeGold]

Hi all, Im interested in the CS that is listed in the classifieds at Mountaineer Ford in WV. Im one of the few fans of Lime Gold. My folks bought a Lime Gold coupe in 67 and held on to it for 20 years.

I see this car is not totally original, but is pretty close.

Any opinions on the value of this particular car? As you know, asking prices for anything pre-MII are all over the place.

I want a 67/68 Lime Gold coupe, V8/PS/PB/AC. This car meets that criteria, except for the AC and thats an easy add. I prefer the parchment interior, but can live with the black. Im not interested in an investment or garage queen, this car would be a driver.

Last year I sold a couple 65 coupes, a 200 and a 289, both automatics. They were nice cars, I just prefer the 67/68.

Thanks for any insight or advice on this car.

 

[robert campbell]

Limey,
Looks like a solid car and is now down to $26.9k. The painted black underside concerns me, and I would need it on a lift to really look at that. The driver door latch has some cracks on the recessed bolts that hold it on. Nice add of the dual GT style exhaust. Sounds like a 4 barrel was put on and that is and easy change back or just as good if adjusted properly.

The think that I would like to verify is the mileage. As we know 56k is very low miles for this car. This was an art back in the day to verify 56k vice 156k or now even 256k. Back in the day I would look for original brake shoes in the back. Original shocks, and door hinges that were not rebuilt and did not sag. It should have an original ford starter solenoid, and nice tight steering. The ad does not mention new suspension and stuff so it should be original and tight at 56k miles.

The verification of low miles is an art. I would look at all exposed sheet metal date codes to verify that they are in sync with the build date of the car.
The fenders, hood, and quarters usually have them. Sometimes the seller gets offended when you go to this detail. The vin number should be on both the trans and the engine block. Compression test is a good test. Fun fun fun.

The other thing is to request some information on the previous owners of the car. To see if they can tell a story of low miles that sounds plausible. That can be difficult also,

The reason I say this, is if this is a 156k mile car, then lots of things are worn. The body may be in nice rust free condition, but it may be do for lots of mechanical work.

To bad Highland Green is not your bag. Neil's car is a known quantity ready to go with everything fresh and professionally done. And for about the same price.

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

This car looks great but I'm a little concerned that looks may be deceiving.

Here are a few items I noticed using my laptop screen.
- Floor seam under the car looks a little goofy (see photo)
- Almost everything under the car is painted black - that usually means everything is old and worn out
- Plus the tops of the front shocks look old and cracked. That makes me wonder if the rest of the suspension is in the same condition.
- The trunk is painted black
- The tail light panel is broken at the passenger side upper screw & the screws are not correct
- Black trim around the taillight doors
- 22 gallon gas tank
- No door bumpers
- Data plate glued on
- Driver’s side scoop lower screw is missing
- Window handle screw covers are missing
- Seat covers poorly installed
- Cheap Scott Drake reproduction passenger interior door handle
- Incorrect washer bottle
- Incorrect fog lights
- Replacement hood
- Radiator support may be a reproduction
- Air shocks
- Wrong gas cap
- Is the spare tire bolt bracket missing?
- Are the fog light brackets missing?
- The dash pad may be a reproduction

 

[LimeGold]

I see a few issues myself. The dash pad is probably the cheap repop not the original tooling. I cant tell on the hood. Most of the interior has been painted or dyed with poor prep work, the color is uneven and inconsistent. Mixing aftermarket with original interior pieces makes the car look shabby IMO. It should be all or none. I would guess the seats were recovered over the original foam.The appearance of the undercarriage and suspension make me think this is not a 56k mile original. .

If the seller does not have rock solid documentation when claiming original mileage, then it isnt original mileage in my book.

A cheap, but effective bore camera runs $20-$100. A great tool to have when giving a classic the once over.

All in all, it is 49 years old. If it isnt hiding rust or bondo, it can be a very nice car with minimal additional work.

Im not a purist in the sense that I will spend years looking for correct date coded parts, but I do like them to be somewhat original appearing and functioning.

I dont think its worth the asking price, at least not to me.

As always what will the buyer pay and what will the seller accept.

 

[LimeGold]

BTW: I guess my interest in this car is that it is a Lime Gold coupe and I dont see CS's for sale very often so I never really considered owning one.

I will watch this a little longer and see what develops.

I have a very nice 64 F100, 292/AT Custom Cab, flareside that sits in a rented garage 99% of the time. I like it but it has no PS/PB/AC, so its only fun an hour or two at a time.

 

[franklinair]

Can't be sure without putting my eyeballs up close, but it appears to me that both front floor pans + right torque box have been replaced. And that can be indicative of the cowl(s) leaking.
My gut feeling is a "Blow, Glow, Go" project. :-(
I'm not against doing repairs (I've done a BUNCH over the years) as long as they're done right, with full disclosure.

Neil

 

[ratrodgta]

Neil, if you read this; My car was in the East for a few years, after Long Beach. The engine compartment, battery area, trunk/gas tank area, and floors, are not rusty. I ran water into the cowl air slits, and no leaks. I do, however, have rust in the rear wheel lips. Some of the undercarriage of the car has surface rust, but it does not appear to be deep. How would you repair the wheel lip areas; would you purchase quarter panels and cut them out in the appropriate repair shape? I do not want to put entire replacement quarter panels on the car; since body lines/panels are straight, trunk, doors, fenders, hood, etc.. Have you worked with this issue? Thanks, Allen

 

[LimeGold]

few people bought these cars and left them in a garage for 50 years. Few have survived 50 years without being in a fender bender or two. Few didnt get the dash hacked up when cassette players were the rage.

Its pretty easy to build a Mustang worth 50K, the problem is, its going to cost you 75K to do it.

Ive been looking for over a year, most of what I see is overpriced. If Im going to spend 25K + on a classic Mustang, it has to be in mint condition, otherwise I will drop it on a used BMW M5, eat sprouts and tofu and hang out with that crowd. Im highly adaptable.

 

[sam]

It all looks suspect to me.................like a worn, tired, whipped out Mustang. I'd run fast and far away and not compromise getting a "solid" car with minimal to no rust.
Sam

 

[ratrodgta]

I paid more than my car was worth, but the fun I had in it last summer and fall was priceless. It's not show quality, it's fun quality. I think I will have the metal work done, touch up those areas, and not dump 10-20k into it. When I got it, 2 collectors/hot rodders here told me, "It's worth what it is the way it is, you put 15 grand into it, and the money just sits there, enjoy it how it is."

 

[franklinair]

ratrod/Limegold;
I'm woe to give advice on paint/bodywork as that is one of the areas I don't do (upholstery is the other). I'm fortunate to have a friend in the body repair business and rely on his expertise in this area. (They did my Highland Green CS paint & body) My advice would be to have a good knowledgeable body shop to evaluate & advise on the wheel lip rust areas. For surface rust, I use Ospho to neutralize the surface rust, clean , and apply paint.
As far as fair market value on a CS, to acquire a GOOD one I would 'guestimate' $30K. (I invested $33K in mine, and I do most of the work myself, saving shop labor costs.) If you want a fixer upper, they'll be in the $15K to $17K range. If you want a concourse quality, $50K to $60K is not unreasonable. I see CS's on E-Bay in the $30K to $50K that are supposedly primo cars, but with any older/collectable cars- Buyer Beware. Knowledge & personal inspection are prerequisites in any case.

Neil

 

[Ruppstang]

I agree with Neil, hire a person or shop to inspect the car. I guarantee it will be worth the cost. I have heard too many sad stories of purchasing a car only to find many dollars worth of repairs.
Be patent and you will find a quality car. Lime gold was the most popular color in 68 so the odd are on your side.
Marty

 

[ratrodgta]

Neil: Thank you for the response, I certainly appreciate the advice of those who have 'been there, done that, and done that that', more than l. How many hours have you put into this car, in addition to $33,000.00?

 

[robert campbell]

I took a 1967 Firebird from a painted shell with a running engine and tranny that were removed. All new wiring and zero suspension work. Installed the old interior and got it to a nice runner with a March pulley system. New exterior trim and a lock set

That ruined 160 hours. Add interior work and suspension work and I bet you could double that easily and then add the cost of the engine and tranny rebuild.

Let's see what Dad says, but I bet 500 hours is not out of the realm. That does not count paint and upholstery on the seats.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

I don't count hours, as I view my restorations as a hobby. (with some therapeutic value):wink:
Some may view me as a 'flipper'- except I don't do it for profit. If someone likes/wants one of my cars, I simply add up my receipts for expenditures, and that's the price of the car.
To sell one for profit would eliminate the hobby aspect. At least for me.

Neil

 

[Ruppstang]

I took a 1967 Firebird from a painted shell with a running engine and tranny that were removed. All new wiring and zero suspension work. Installed the old interior and got it to a nice runner with a March pulley system. New exterior trim and a lock set

That ruined 160 hours. Add interior work and suspension work and I bet you could double that easily and then add the cost of the engine and tranny rebuild.

Let's see what Dad says, but I bet 500 hours is not out of the realm. That does not count paint and upholstery on the seats.

Rob

Rob you are not far off there. In a complete trailered concours restoration 1000 hours is not far off especially if you count the research and parts accusation hours.

Any one would be lucky to have one of Neil's cars that he has donated his time to!