Removing Decklid Hinge ?

[nfrntau]

I'm to the point of removing the decklid hinges. Should I be worried about them springing on me as I take off the bolts? Is there a secret that I need to know about?
Thanks all

Bill

 

[PNewitt]

Excuse my asking, but why are you removing the hinges? Are they rusted?

I don't have a specific method for you, 'cause I've never done it. All I can say is to be careful, and use gloves and eyewear.

However--the decklid spring for the GT/CS (HCS) and the '68 Shelby convertible is DIFFERENT than a standard '67-'68 coupe or conv. version. Ours is much stronger. It even has its own part number.

Good Luck.

Paul N.

 

[nfrntau]

Paul,
The hinges are in fine shape. I have several areas with small holes rusted through. Deck lid filler panel, both Pass floor boards, both sides under rear seat, Dr side rear floor panel, between fuel tank and tail light panel and one spot about the size of a dollar coin on the top portion of the drivers side engine compartment next to the fender.

These are the ones that I have found and know about.
It's my intention to take it down to the minimum and have the car chemical dipped. I would then know exactly what I have (or don't have) to work with. Also I would have all the rust taken care of and wouldn't have to worry about if I had missed some to come back and bite me later. There is alot of minor surface rust also in the interior and trunk areas.

Maybe I am on the wrong track here, but with the extent of rust that I have I think to strip it in this manner would be less expensive than having someone blast, sand and scrape it clean. I have just won custody of my two small children and my Mustang budget has just taken a serious blow. Fortunately it doesn't cost a whole lot to take it apart and polish, clean or paint the brightwork and small parts. Have to start somewhere.
I find it interesting that our GT/CS - HCS hinges would be stronger. I would think with a fiberglass decklid it would be less strong due to weight differences.
Thanks
Bill

 

[PFSlim]

Bill

Our Cal Spec came with the 2 rods that go from each hinge. I don't know if these are the hinges for our car, but what we have. If you have those, no worries in taking them off. Losen both bolts on each side and they will come off together. Eventually, after you get them out of the car, they will come loose and come apart from the hinges. Putting back in are alittle harder, but okay. I would wear gloves.

As you can see on our gallery, we completely dismantled what was left of our car, put the car on a rotisserie, and sand blasted everything using a borrowed sandblaster. If you want more information on media, let us know and I can get PBgt/cs to respond.

Our car started as a mess. Alot of rust, after sandblasting, we used POR15 on the front clip, primer on the body, then flipped over and started cutting and welding.

Hope this helps

Paul

 

[PFSlim]

[quote author=PFSlim link=board=1;threadid=1266;start=0#msg7151 date=1103218391]
Bill

Our Cal Spec came with the 2 rods that go from each hinge. I don't know if these are the hinges for our car, but what we have. If you have those, no worries in taking them off. Losen both bolts on each side and they will come off together. Eventually, after you get them out of the car, they will come loose and come apart from the hinges. Putting back in are alittle harder, but okay. I would wear gloves.

As you can see on our gallery, we completely dismantled what was left of our car, put the car on a rotisserie, and sand blasted everything using a borrowed sandblaster. If you want more information on media, let us know and I can get PBgt/cs to respond.

Our car started as a mess. Alot of rust, after sandblasting, we used POR15 on the front clip, primer on the body, then flipped over and started cutting and welding.

Hope this helps

Paul

Sorry: Picture of our hinges here.

Paul


[/quote]

 

[Talan423]

when i took my gt/cs in for body and paint work, the shop owner took my hinges off too. when i got the car back the decklid would not "spring" up anymore. the owner of the shop cut the hell out of his hands trying to put them back in and never could get them set right. i have been looking at other gt/cs and shelby convertibles and my rods all seem to be in the right slots. i have heard it is difficult to re-install them. so if you don't know exactly how to set the rods, or if you don't have to touch them i would leave them alone. just my two cents.

tom

 

[rjw]

Sounds like wise counsel.
Richard

 

[rvrtrash]

I used a set of "pump pliers" at least that's what we call them. Think of channel-locks on steroids. Get a pair with jaws that will completely enclose the end of the rod where it goes in the adjuster and handles over a foot long. This gives you safety and leverage. Position the "U" shaped end in whatever slots will keep the trunk lid up. Mine are both in the slots nearest the rear of the car. Hope this helps everyone-and PFSlim-your project is looking good. Good work guys.
Steve

 

[PFSlim]

Thanks Steve. I appreciate it. Our hinges are now set towards the very back slot (towards rear of car) as well. As far as installing, it is not a one person job and is not to be completed outside the car. Hinges must be bolted in. Then, we hooked the side with the long "L" shape on one side, then the "U" shape last. We used a boxed in wrench to initially attach over the "U" shape. (not a safe as Steve). We we adjusted from first slot (forward) to back slot, I climbed in from the interior of the car with no back seat or anything, used a large screw driver to move the "U" shape back into place.

I think bottom line is that I would not remove either if you don't have to. I believe that all of our cars were painted with rear hinges on. If you really don't need to remove for some other reason, I would leave on just to save the headache of reinstalling.

Paul

 

[66joej]

Regarding the procedure to instal and adjust torsion bars on trunklid hinges.
The Ford people use a simple tool. A picture is in your shop manual. Section 17 page 91.
Use the torsion bar as a guide to drill the hole and cut the slot.
I made mine out of a piece of 3/16 flat bar.
Joe

 

[nfrntau]

Well for better or worse I took them off. This is what I found. Both of my rods were in the middle slots. The drivers side fwd to passenger side aft rod was on top. The rods appear to be the same but when held next to each other are different. This may be from being under torque all these years. In the photo, the C end on the right is drivers forward and the C end veering left is the passenger side forward. This may cure Toms hinges. I found if I laid one of them on the ground and stepped on it. I could manuever the other around (very carefully) by twisting my whole body with a firm grip. It will stay in place. Definitely wear your safety glasses on this one and be careful. Those hinges store a lot more energy than you would think
Thanks for the help everybody.

 

[Sarge]

My trunk lid acts like a catapult, and will "sling" anything left on the lid a good distance when opening the trunk... I did spend about 15 minutes one day attempting to adjust them, and kinda gave up. I have been waiting for "more knowledgeable people" than I to ask about this. Now I am not sure it would be worth all the effort. Anyway, at least I now know how to do it!!!
Thanks,
Robert

 

[PFSlim]

Sarge

That is correct. To adjust yours, you just need to move the "C" part of the hinge to the forward part of the trunk. It is not that hard.

Paul