. Repro Starter Solenoid Problem

[RU_SPCL2]

Wondering if anyone is using the repro starter solenoid sold by Marti Autoworks and if you have had issues with it "sticking".

I have had three of them stick, so I'm assuming that there is a design or quality problem, but can't rule out that there isn't a problem with the supply voltage or ground that is contributing to it.

If this has never happened to you, the symptoms can be mild to wild.

The mild scenario is the engine fails to shut off when the ignition is switched off.

The wild scenario is the starter fails to disengage after the key is released, resulting in the running engine spinning the starter at high RPM. This makes some pretty horrendous grinding noises and if not corrected within 30 seconds or so could do serious damage to the starter and perhaps other components. (This happened to me today.)

BTW, the solenoid can typically be "unstuck" by tapping it lightly with a hammer or rubber mallet. I suppose if this fails, yanking the wires from the solenoid should disengage the starter and kill the engine.

I have not had this issue when using an original solenoid or even using another aftermarket solenoid. It seems specific to the Marti product which I believe is made by AMK.

To their credit, the Marti folks have exchanged the solenoid twice, but I'm leery of yet another exchange if there is a design or manufacturing issue. I may just swap it out for the less correct but reliable Ford D2 part I have. I just really liked the C7 repro for its original part number and paint daub.

Anyhow, just wondering if others have run into this problem and what the solution is?

 

[stangfan]

I bought the "best" solenoid from NPD. The one on the car when I bought it was a parts store special. It worked fine, but did not look correct. I installed the NPD one, and started the car up. Worked great. Put my tools away, and went to go for a drive and the starter would not disengage when the car started. I ended up pulling the positive battery cable if I remember correctly. Went inside, got out my invoice and called NPD. They apologized and said a new one will be on your doorstep in a couple of days. It was. I installed that one and have had no problems for two years.

I believe the problem is, as with many things these days, they are made in China. Quality control isn't their strong point.

I did have an issue where the car would not shut off after I turned off the key and even removed it from the ignition. That turned out to be the ignition switch.

 

[Ruppstang]

I believe that most of the reproductions are made by the same manufacturer. I have had three or four bad ones. And have gone to restoring working originals. A forty two year old one works better than a brand new one, go figure.
Marty

 

[robert campbell]

The fact that you can tap it an "hear" it release (I guess) certainly verifies that the solenoid is defective. One other thing to consider is the small wire on the connection closest to the side your large wire from the battery connects to, is the wire that provides power only with the key in the "start" position. The 12 volts on this terminal is the power that engages the solenoid and powers the starter.

I am curious if your ignition switch is bad and when you release the key to return to the "run" or "on" position, is the ignition still providing voltage to the solenoid at this terminal?

An easy way to test is to disconnect the large wire to the starter from the solenoid. Now have your lovely assistant sit in the drivers seat. Get out a volt/ohm meter and set it to measure 12 volts "DC". That stands for damn confusing!! Test it on you battery to verify it works. Or get the old school "probe and light tester" that I have. It has a clamp for a ground and you can touch the other in the small post on the solenoid. Be sure the wire to the terminal is on.

Have lovely assistant turn the key to the start position and hold it. You should have 12 volts at that terminal. Have her release the key to the on position. The voltage should disappear. Do this test quite a few times. If you ever see 12 volts in the on vice start position, your ignition switch is faulty.

I have seen the opposite occur a few times. You start the car and as soon as you release the key to the run position it shuts off. As long as you keep the starter engaged the car runs. Release the key and the engine stops. The ignition switch is faulty and in the run position it does not provide power to the coil.

You should be able to test this safely with the starter power wire off!!

Rob

 

[dalorzo_f]

AMK notes that the vast majority of "bad" soleniods they get sent back are fine. They note a good ground is required, ensure the base is well grounded to the apron, adding a stamped nut to the backside of one, or both, screws and ensuring they scratch thru to bare metal is a good way to help.

http://www.amkproducts.com/Ford_starter_relays.asp

 

[robert campbell]

+1 on that comment!

Rob

 

[390cs68rcode]

make sure the ground is secure and properly grounded/attached. The issue comes up from time to time.

 

[Ruppstang]

I agree completely with the grounding but if just changing to a original fixes the problem it most likely was not a grounding. I have two beautiful NPD reproductions that I would be happy to send to some one who thinks that they are great.
Marty

 

[stangfan]

I agree completely with the grounding but if just changing to a original fixes the problem it most likely was not a grounding. I have two beautiful NPD reproductions that I would be happy to send to some one who thinks that they are great.
Marty

While I don't know that the NPD solenoids are great, the one I have now works fine and looks a lot more correct than the parts store one. :grin:

 

[DeadStang]

I agree completely with the grounding but if just changing to a original fixes the problem it most likely was not a grounding. I have two beautiful NPD reproductions that I would be happy to send to some one who thinks that they are great.
Marty

For $45 bucks a pop or whatever I paid--for the worthless pieces of junk.