. still pukes

[66hcs-conv]

Hi All,

Got new cooling hoses put on, the t-stat is installed correctly. (See my previous post regarding engine erupting.)

Without the radiator cap off, started the car, ran for 10 minutes, shut it off for 10 minutes (+ or -), started, ran another 5-7 minutes, shut it of and repeated a third time. I am sure the t-stat opened up as the water at the top of the radiator was really moving a lot, and the top radiator hose was hot. I didn't have a lot of antifreeze in it, mostly water.

Right after I shut it off the 3rd time the radiator puked again! It didn't loose a lot of water; the fins in the radiator are still covered.

I am at a complete loss with this car. I do not understand what is going on.

I would appreciate any and all your thoughts.

Thanks, Dave

 

[robert campbell]

Dave,
It is a new motor and it is running a bit hot. When you say it puked, was the cap on?

1. Always leave the water about 1 inch below the filler cap so it can expand.
2. Never run with the cap off.
3. Run at least 12 degrees BTDC initial timing. You can even go as far as 16 degrees BTDC in the garage at idle. More advance equal less heat. Especially when running a new motor in the garage in summer heat.
4. When you go for the first drive baby it until you see how the engine reacts with 12 or 16 degrees of advance. Do not let it ping.

I bet all is good and it just needs to break in a bit and start running a bit cooler.

Rob

 

[dalorzo_f]

Yep, run it with the cap on and see what happens. 213 is going to do it, boil water (as you indicate using water assuming no coolant yet), which is not really "overheating".

If you have a car running fine and take the cap off at operating temp.... = old Faithful... so put in your preferred mix of coolant/anti-freeze and see what the running temp (drive it to get more air over the rad) is with the cap on. And unless its well over 225-230 then I'd agree with Robert that its just a tight new engine running a bit warmer than you are used to with an old worn one... no real problem to speak of.

 

[CougarCJ]

It is possible that the cylinder head gaskets are on backwards. FRONT has to be face up and at the front of the engine on both sides.

 

[p51]

May be obvious but gotta ask... after you refilled the coolant did you "burp" your cooling system (also called "bleeding" the cooling system) to make sure there were no air pockets? After you turn the engine off and as it heat soaks expanding air pockets can some mini-eruptions of coolant.

Here's a neat trick when replacing a thermostat (see ~min 3)...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYwJ7pfiS7c

 

[robert campbell]

When I fill any V8 engine I find the heater core return hose that usually connects to the intake manifold. I remove it and slowly fill the engine until water comes out of that intake fitting. Have my lovely assistant quickly push the hose on and then tighten it up. This pretty much eliminates any major air pockets in the engine.

Finish filling it up to 1 inch below the cap. Good to go.

Rob

 

[66hcs-conv]

Hi all,

I did have two 3/16 holes drilled in the t-stat, in a n effort to "burp" the engine. I filled the radiator and let it sit over nite, hoping to avoid the air bubbles.

I will use the trick Rob has suggested of removing the heater hose and filling the cooling system, as well as checking the timing.

Thanks for all your help, Dave