1968 Stuck Lifter

[Mosesatm]

After finally finishing the painting of the engine and the engine bay I started the car, and now it has a what seems to be a collapsed lifter, as it's tapping and not pumping oil. What's the best way to free it up, if possible? Can I adjust it with the engine running to maybe encourage it to cooperate? Do I need to pull the nice pretty freshly-painted intake and replace it and the rest of the lifters?

Thanks

 

[Ruppstang]

I think I would try an Autoparts store remedy first. You really do not have much to lose.

 

[Mosesatm]

I have some SeaFoam that I can run through it.

 

[admin]

You can adjust the nut on the rocker arm while the engine is running. But that will only help a tap being caused by too much lash on the push rod. If you have verified that there's no (or not much) oil coming up the pushrod, then tightening the rocker arm isn't the answer.

So hopefully the lifter or pushrod are just a little gummed up and the SeaFoam will help.

 

[Mosesatm]

Found out the reason for the lifter noise. Unfortunately, we didn't figure it out until after a 300-mile trip, when I was talking to Rob about another issue. The lifter finally pumped up before the trip, but the reason it took so long to stop clattering was due to low oil pressure. The engine is now pretty well trashed due to a $1.29 part that fell out. On the bright side the oil is all nice and glittery.

This little bugger was in the oil pan.

All that painting down the drain.

 

[rvrtrash]

I've never seen an expansion plug fall out on it's own. I never would have thought of that.

Steve

 

[Ruppstang]

I have not ever heard of that either. Arlie you seem to have the worst luck, I feel bad for you. I guess the first painting was just practice, the next time will be even better.

Marty

 

[Mosesatm]

I’m just glad I didn’t drive it all the way to Iowa!!

 

[csgt428]

Did you have a working oil pressure gauge? Just curious as to whether it showed normal pressure even with the plug out. I have a gauge with a flexible hose on it I use to check actual pressure if there is a question.... I just screw the sender out and screw the hose in. Your engine may still last awhile if it has at least 10-20lbs at idle warm. Or you may be able to get away with just replacing crank and rod bearings after dropping your pan and cross member..... I've had some luck doing that.... the problem with parts house senders is they quite often read higher due to the incorrect resistance built in. I run an actual mechanical sender with a copper tube on it....under dash gauge. I have a T on end of extension tube so I can run both factory and aftermarket gauges.