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Very nice....

The hole shown here. Doesn't really affect fit, not sure if it just punches thru the sheet metal or a different clip was used to add the screw. Not a big fitment issue, but one of the 3-4 differences in the '67 and '68...

mmm.... know they are very similar, as the basic shape is the same but the turn signal openings are quite different, the '67 screws to the dash on the lower left, which is not on the '68... was not sure if the little "light tubes" that are on the '68 work on the '67 as I think they are different...

Does the '67 instrument bezel just "bolt on" to a 68 base housing? Do the differences in the layout require a different backing housing?

Would probably not go full deluxe, not a fan of the deluxe armrests, kind of a boxy blob to my eye... The deluxe door panels are nice but the Aus $ and shipping make them a very expensive add on, but I think you can use the standard armrests with them to pick up the woodgrain accent.... maybe...

Not sure but there are adjusting nuts, very thin jamb nuts, on the shafts behind the bezel on the originals. This adjusts the position on the radio to the bezel. Is this depth set right or adjustable on yours? The photo is a correct 8TPZ AM. Not familiar with the Aeronautica's, believe they...

A quick pic from a spare in the shed... the cracked one shows about how far the sleeve goes. HTH

Should just press on... they don't go on too far... about 5/16"-3/8" max. The little ring on the shaft just tucks in barely beyond the edge of the outer ring.

Thanks for the photo and input.

Have a Wimbledon White/black car. I have been organising the garage and storage and stumbled across a '68 overhead console I forgot I had. I was going to sell it.... but then thought about adding it to the car. I also have a restored black deluxe steering wheel, so am contemplating doing a...

never done it and think the conversion kits are almost as much as a new clock... here is a write up on the process of repairing the original... http://68vert.blogspot.com.au/2009/01/my-new-old-dash-clock-repair.html

Hmm... that is odd. I had a decent stone chip (filled prior to polishing) and some very large scratches polished out (professionally). I was amazed at how well the glass came back. Can't say on the NPD Carlite. But I have found the Carpenter seals to be OK. One thing to look at is sizing...

Do they do the plaid in the Burtex material? Like the lay/feel of it better than the hard vinyl on the typical repro plaid mats I've had..

3 types for the GT/CS run, or the model year?

Some shots of the one in the GTCS as purchased for comparison. As a one owner car not overly molested, but not sure if this is the original, but condition and wear led me to this it is a possibility... but it is not stiched either, unsure if that was done on them for the GTCS or not... may be a...

NPDs Burtex speckled. Good fit, but no stitched seams.

Does that car have any of the factory VINs? That would confirm a real GT/CS by a Marti report. Me, if it is verified as a real GT/CS and was solid with just a new hood I can't see it taking a 40% hit on value. People rebuild a rusted car, replacing everything but the A pillar on the RH side...

Looked into this for the EXP I did, but Ivy Gold. I decided to go for an "off color" for the console as I felt an exact match would look odd. I went for a darker green, actually the '69 color, that did not match the seat bolsters or inserts. I felt too much "same color" and matching...

Have tried that one, marginal results...

Found a wipe of vinyl Dye in Semi Gloss Black works ok. Spray on a rag and a light wipe-on application spruces up an old box OK. Evens up the color and doesn't leave the "painted" look.... prep on some has also been a very careful and very light/quick media blasting to get rid of old...