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A few possibilites, - Battery not fully charged, not enough "ooomph" to throw starter to engage - Bad soleniod - bad grounds or connections between battery and starter - Worn starter gear or teeth on flywheel resulting in jamming or, what heppened to me recently, a piece of an old starter in...

It is amazing to me that Ford designed such inadequate lights, yet no recall... :wink: If restoring to stock is "parlor tricks", so be it... never burned up any of the items noted, but have only been driving 60's Mustangs for 30+ years, guess I'm lucky! $280 vs some new $3 bulbs and...

Never seen that one before! Would be afraid someone heated and shortened them as a "fix"... but may be fatigue... very odd.

And I did confirm I have the NPD AP-4464....

If you do prime, be sure to use one compatible with acrylic lacquer... per my painter some etch primers won't play nice with the paint...

A small socket or screwdriver handle with a bit of rubber (or even a correct size piece of stiff rubber hose) inserted can help get them out without damaging the base. A good rust breaker (not WD40, really marginal for that) helps. Not sure if it is available in the US but a product I found...

Yep, I have considered that option as I have a spare clip or two. Will take another look when I get back under the car to make the final tweaks to the first and see if the routing looks secure. Thanks for the help!

Yep, that wasbthe starter wire, with the extra protection behind it running along the area over the mount. Used dab of sikaflex to secure the grommet to the clamp. Once it dries I'll give it a slight crimp and bend as appeared to be the case on the OEM's I have... Ran the negative over the...

Crawled under the car today and the only place that seemed logical was mounting it from the front bolt of the engine mount... so that's where it went...

Its specific to one laptop, can't ascertain the reason why one is allowing the popus (blocker is on, still come up, very odd) they are small "mini-windows" in the lower left. As that laptop is going away soon, am just avoiding it and using the spare for accessing "hobby sites"...

Where does the grommet/"J clip" that bolts to the block attach on a C code? (image courtesy National Parts Depot) Anyone got shots down the side of the engine (know its a difficult area to get good photos of) showing the routing of the ground and starter wire. Seem to run real close to...

Have seen numerous posts about them on the VMF site, generally positive replies, but do not recall seeing a large number of reviews from actual users. Not sure how they come up with 2 1/2" of headroom, as the bows (at least on my coupes) almost touch the roof or do, and I doubt pulled taut the...

I can check. But I think it was AP-4464 as you note. Lifting sounds like poor prep. Did you use wax and grease remover before painting? if you had Armor all or other residue on it you have to get it ALL off. Just sanding/steel wool won't do. As a lacquer its really thin so you have to use...

Some progress on other fronts too... door internals and interior... And some shiny "new" bits no one willl ever see (most of them anyway)

Have not used those two, but the NPD version is a dead match for OEM if applied lightly from about 12-14" away in light coats and a bit "dry"...

Not sure of shipping from the US, but I used this guy for a '68 deluxe restoration. Really top notch work. http://www.rimblowrestorations.co.nz/

Stencil for the stripes designed and cut and to the shop today. Once wet sanding and buffing is done the stripes will be painted on to emulate the "old school" style... no clear info on if the original was paint or vinyl, but going with paint as I think Shelby would have probably painted for...

Baby's in black, and I feel blue??? :wink:

"Lucas"... aren't those Marchal's??? :wink:

C'mon, it is tongue in cheek... no offense, just some fun... guess the Aussie sites are better at a bit of banter and not taking offense to a joke..... thus the :smile: Been her too long and going native! No offense intended, apologies if taken that way. :wink: