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This is an original 68 deluxe interior cluster I picked up yesterday... Interesting it has a C7 6k tach... not to open that can of worms again....

What year, are you talking about, a '68? If so the upper middle loaction was for a clock originally. There was a guy here in Australia who made a "mini tach" that fit the spot, there were 6k and 8k models. I have seen some folks use Jeep (and other) tachs that fit the space. 6k version of...

Hmmm... in the building, on the line... splitting semantic hairs... they were not (as far as I know) "then sent somewhere to be modified" and were all made in that facility... If that was the case and they are not considered to be part of "the line" production (however you define that) then...

1. No. Began Jan 18th, 25 cars hand built in Jan. 200 by Feb 14th, 759 by Feb 28. So Feb 20 could be in the first 500-ish... 2. Production numbers give a relative range of build date, but were not necessarily sequential. As the GTCS was a special production run blocks were assigned so some...

Convertible was just laps and the wiring, the extra $3 got you the shoulder straps... The seatbelt light was separate from the main harness, would find it hard to believe they made that a completely separate underdash harness item... just plugs off a options hot feed under the dash on the...

Thought they were meant to be driven... :wink: Wash it... one drive won't rust it out... new owner, let 'em enjoy it...

Well, on the upside no overheating issues (I hope!!!) Congrats on the purchase..

Cool. Can you get me his details by PM.....???

To adjust, the tip on the rod should thread on. That is the adjustment. You need to make a template, a "U" shape that sits over the base and over the rod, and adjust the length of the rod to 0.989-0.995" from the face of the filter plate to the tip of the rod....

"Repaired"? My understanding was that is extremely difficult as the body (tube) has to be sectioned, the guts redone then the tube end rewelded. I know it is "doable" (s its how they were built originally) but all indications I have seen in the past were that his was so cost prohibitive as...

Shop used the ram shaft as a lever arm when removing the front steering linkage... bare metal Bendix OEM PS ram... now useless...... :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: Looking, probably in vain, for an OEM replacement. 68 C Code

Define "dash". The pad or the metal? If you just meant the trim over the body metal; The RH side lower has two screws underneath and a large nut on a plastic tab on the back (fun to get to). RH large panel about 7-9 nuts on plastic tabs (again, fun to get to). The center piece is held by the...

Know the 10 spokes were not stock for '68, but some (very, very few) did get them from the factory. Just curious, and find it odd they would be so dimensionally different, and with all the cars that now have them (from various vendors) find it surprising there would be a fitment issue..

"I have a original Shelby set and they will rub the caliper if a spacer is not used." How does that work, thought the Shelby's had basically the same front suspension and brakes....??? Especially in 68, basically a stock J code for the 350 with some fiberglass... no real "performance"...

Random web shots....

+1 on white with the white stripes. Unless you change them black (which looks better IMHO) a black top with white stripes may look odd... Maybe someone can photoshop up some views...

$95 is a reasonable price. About the average I have seen. If you want some I'd buy 'em as they are not an extremely common item. You "can" find them for less, and likely will see a pair at $50.. but only if you buy these. I if you don't you'll only find more expensive ones... at least...

I have seen that stamp, think its a date, not sure if it is the manufacturing date or what.... I have a similar one, don't recall what is it and the engine is at the shop... will check it tomorrow...

Not everyone has great grammar or English skills... for some its a second language, and some selling these cars are not obsessed with them... I'd give 'em the benefit of doubt, as it looks like a reasonably legit ad.

The adjustment is to get it in the "cold" postion, then as noted you can turn the knob, tricky to get to, and set the flap so it just closes the opening. Test with heat/cool, it should be fine, but sometimes you need to "overadjust" the flap and have it move a bit more to closed...