Search results

Know its a C8ZZ-9030-C, but in looking for a replacement for the repaint noticed NPD sells a "68 GT/CS" base for about $130 and a "67-68 Shelby" for half that. Thought the base was the same and the only difference was the logo/applique on the lid?

So .... no one has ever wanted to cover up the screws? And any confirmation on the silicone? As in looking into it I can find no mention of this detail anywhere...

Decided it was time to spruce up the GT/CS. Shop had a window or opportunity, and the EXP is on hold for various reasons... Stripping begin, about 5 hours of work and all badges and exterior trim hood locks rear panel and valence rear seat and rear interior panels trunk area bits vinyl top...

See a lot of posts about the horrors of vinyl roofs. if you are doing one, here is a tip based on the few I have done.... Clean, sand and primer the top before applying the vinyl roof. A clean and prepped surface is critical. Here are two rust spots that were on my '68 GT/CS. A second top...

Wow.... you have some good karma to walk away from that! Sad to see, as with the extensive damage it looks like a write off. If you can get it back there are still many valuable parts on the car, so while looking pretty gone, not a total loss. To resurrect that one would require some major...

One need to note that to get the 60-120% (which seem quite high) add on for the 390/428 all the correct parts would need to be there, not just a VIN...

Well, you don't "need" to but it sure comes out looking better...:wink: How does NPD's "correct" compare, as it has the A pillar seam now, different than what they sod a few years ago. About half the price noted...

The white/black is a great look.. but I am biased! Going in for paint today, "quick" color only and engine bay detailing. Hopefully back in 6-8 weeks. (and wihtin bugdget!) On the vinyl roof, done a few and have seen only minor rust. An issue to be looked at just like cowls, trunk rop...

Some hate them, some like them. If it was later being sold as a "correct" car obviously its a hit. It would be more significant on a rarer engine/option car, if its a "typical" C code or T code IMHO the addition would not affect value. An S or R then it would be a consideration... the middle...

? The points on the value almost all say take it at 10-12k. IMO the comments are fair based on the info provided, and not personal, but I guess it depend on how you read it. The other offers noted are relevant, as its sets a known benchmark they have in-hand. If I had a "friend" who offered...

Yep, not a cheap part! :confused:

An example from the NPD site, D-MC138. Here is their D-43 which they call out as for 68 Mustang... no Ford Numbers on them so not sure how to tell one from another.

A $2000-2500 hit for a cracked tail panel? I had a damaged original reglassed by a guy here for $100, looks as good as new. You can buy a OEM for less than half that (I paid $500 for the cracked one, with the buckets, lens, and trims in good shape). The rear valance dent is very minor...

I used Cast Blast, probably not perfect but close enough for me and readily available.

Very good overview. A few links I had saved... Here is some more info you can print out and refer to in the garage if you are old school and like paper... http://www.carburetor-blog.com/motorcraft-2100-carburetor/...

And NOS are way spendy... if you can find them. Seen them go for over $300, as repros are in the ~$100-ish range. The one you have will work fine.

And just took a look at a wiring diagram I did a while ago, the 9 appears correct, 10 holes, 9 wires...

Leave them disconnected. The repros are multi-use and have them so one part goes in a few more applications... forget what they're for, but not needed on a '68.

No clue what the close up is of... some door bit with two tone paint? And I'd think the wrong color was ordered or wrong year light vs dark blue or a mislabeled can or similar error as none of NPD's stuff I've seen is that far off... at least in the last 5 years...