Search results

Related to the current paint job and engine post. The OEM cap has polished up really well. only issue is the black paint is a bit faded and worn. I'd like to reuse it as its original. Has anyone attempted to repaint the black around the running horse and rest of the badge? Tips and tricks?

As noted in the post on the main site I am "refreshing" my GT/CS. The engine is out and will not be rebuilt but I am removing most easily removed bolt-ons, cleaning and painting. Looking for info/photos on the OEM look as while its not going to be a concours restoration I figure its easy...

Nice! Very clean, good looking car... bet it'll be fun to drive too!!!

Another example...

A few codes and dates from the engine. Look reasonable, but he Jan manifold and lack of a date on the water pump (maybe a repro, not sure yet) are looking like maybe a rebuild and some add-ons. Block C8AE-6015-B 8C5 5-Apr-68 RH Head 8C7 7-Apr-68 LH Head...

From "the book" F - Gulfstream Aqua/ Black, Aqua, Parchment interior Colors / White

225's are big on the front. On my 68 S GT coupe the PO had them and they had rub marks from hitting the UCA. 205's 215's

The repro you list is the male that goes on the column side. Readily available. Its the female that is not available, he's looking for a pair. Here's the other one Neil... there are two used ones listed on their site ( and "In Stock" does not necessarily mean ready-to-ship, as I found out...

Under the column? I think only the switch wiring end is reproduced, I guess they figure you have a good under dash harness as this came up on one of the other sites not too long ago. The general consensus I recall seeing was that for the main harness you had to find a used OEM... which just...

Jeff, so in picture 3 there should be almost no red oxide visible?

Very nice work. Should the PS Ram be natural or SGB? Have seen both and not sure which is correct.

Engine and C4 out today... both VIN stamped. :smile: Guys at the shop concur that it looks like its never been out of the car...

Thanks, but I am not stripping back to bare, want to leave the existing factory paint so will not clean up much more than shown in the areas already done... looking to preserve as much as I can, not replicate...

And some pics of the driveshaft. Cleaning only with wax and grease remover and a scotch-brite.... Any suggestions on a finish to keep it looking OK as long as possible? Rust converter, wax? Not keen on clear coat as it will encapsulate rust.

Well, a few more hours today and a few over the weekend and the car is almost completely stripped. All that is left is to remove the guts from one door, pull the engine/trans (no access for the lift at the shop, all loose and ready to come out), and remove the brake lines. Still needs to...

My body guy built half of this out of sheet metal... amazing skills.... most of the chrome trim parts were hand made from brass base stock. http://sleepingbeauties.com.au/1934mercedes.html And then they won a trophy at Pebble Beach with it...

Thanks. The car in question...

I believe that most Mustangs had the rear valence hung by 2 screws and painted on the car. Was this same method used on the GT/CS's and the fiberglass panel painted separately and then applied over the pre-painted tail panel?

8R01C139356 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6877.0

yep, would agree that it makes sense that on the line as the vast majority would be "standard" they would have been pre drilled..