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So what's the current wisdom on replacing stock front suspension parts? Are there certain brands to look for? Is Moog still making decent parts? How about Drake? For the upper control arms, is there anything wrong with keeping my stock arms and just replacing the control arm shaft and ball...

A few more photos of my scoops for posterity. The "rain holes" or "drain grooves" or whatever you want to call them, are not identical between my two scoops. They aren't exactly the same size and aren't in the same spot. This tells me they were not in the mold, but drilled or notched after...

I can't say for sure, but my unrestored HCS scoops have them. I just took them off for the first time a week or so ago (see my photo above) Also, in Paul Newitt's "Recognition Guide & Owner's Manual" on page 107, there's a photo in the bottom right corner that appears to also show this "drain...

I can't quite tell from the photos. Do these scoops have a small "drain gap" (for lack of better term) like the photo below shows?

Done. No problem! Looks great. Do you have more photos? How long did that take you?

Well, we pulled the engine and transmission today. It's been 25+ years since I've done this, but it all pretty much came back to me. Took about 5.5 hrs with the help of my son and one of his friends. Not as fast as I hoped, but not terrible. Exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe bolts took a good...

Here's a photo of a scoop where the witness line is pretty much non-existent. It's either an aftermarket scoop or an original that's been sanded down as Arlie pointed out. And here are some photos of the witness line on one of my original (never repainted) scoops.

Mine appears drilled, which is also what Paul writes in the Recognition Guide (pg 107)

Which center hole?

Yes, it appears to be. Never noticed it until I had the scoops off.

Interesting. White exterior with a Saddle interior. Not sure I've seen that combo in person. I wish they had a few more photos posted. Yeah, nice options; factory headrests, 8-track, tilt steering, GT, PS, AC, lower console.

Success! I drilled a small pilot hole to see how close I was to guessing where the stud was, then drilled the final hole with a 1" hole saw. A 3/4" hole saw probably would have worked just fine as well, but 1" was what I had on hand. The nut on the scoop takes a 7/16" socket. Pics below for...

Thanks Neil. That sounds like a good plan. Do you recall if this spot circled in blue is anywhere close to where you drilled? This photo is the passenger side.

Nimble hands of a 17 yr old? :) I gave my son the task of removing the rear bumper while I worked on the front fenders. And that's how he got it done.

This is almost an identical twin to my Highland Green HCS. It's in very similar condition, including extra helpings of "patina". ;) I'd be curious how close it is to me in Phoenix. I've never seen it, but not a surprise since it's probably not been driven much lately.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'll go ahead and pull the engine and transmission as suggested. Other than that, we made a lot of disassembly progress today. Photos below.

Definitely no access hole on my HCS. I'll need to pull the window assembly to get to that scoop stud. (yes, I realize I'm bringing back a really, really old thread ;))

Neil, I'm not media blasting it to be a perfectionist. I'm just doing it to save time vs hand sanding all the surface rust. My paint is all original, but not in good shape at all. So there's no avoiding stripping off all the original paint. I figured media blasting would be the quickest and...

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Regarding pulling the engine/transmission, I have a hoist and stand, so it's not a huge deal. I guess my biggest concern is the snowball effect. If I pull the engine, then of course I'll clean and paint it. And I might as well replace gaskets, water pump...

More photos: Fender apron rust just forward of shock tower: