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  1. M

    1968 mating engine and trans

    I am probably too cautious but replacing the front seal in the transmission is an easy decision for me. It takes little time, costs virtually nothing compared to the parts we buy for our Mustangs and can pay dividends both in peace of mind and in preventing a leak down the road. Sure, the old...
  2. M

    1968 mating engine and trans

    Richard, the seal is the one that the converter enters , commonly called the front seal. The converter must come off to change the seal but I feel it is worth the effort. The seal is not expensive and the labor is virtually complete already with the transmission out and separated from the engine.
  3. M

    1968 mating engine and trans

    Richard, be sure that you put the "plate" between the engine and the transmission. It is very easy to leave that part out when mating the engine and transmission. Don't ask me how I know this! Also be VERY sure that you have the converter indexed correctly to the flex plate. It is easy to...
  4. M

    1968 Rubber hood bumper "jam" nut

    Looking as this is written at Paul Newitt's lastest publication. Page 35 bottom of the page under "HOOD PINS" and taken from the Ford "District Special Order (DSO) Delete-Add List". As follows ""44724-S2 - 2 each, Flat Washer - 5/16 (Att. Hood Bumper (16763) to Fender flange)"" > I think...
  5. M

    1968 Rubber hood bumper "jam" nut

    Richard, where in the world did you find that info? And secondly, what was used on your car? I have a flat washer on one side and a flange nut on the other and either or both look as if they may have been added at some time. I looked all over for a Ford drawing of what we should expect to see...
  6. M

    1968 Rubber hood bumper "jam" nut

    Seeking information or better yet an image of the "jam" nut on the stud of the rubber bumper that the front of the hood rests upon. On our C.S cars the front fender bolt was replaced with a hood stop which was locked in place with this nut. The standard "half" nut that was used on these...
  7. M

    1968 Hood twist lock adhesive?

    Richard, THANK YOU! Just ordered a patch of the item you linked to. Looks as if it will indeed be, as you note, perfect. Will let you know in a week or so how it worked. Thanks again.
  8. M

    1968 Hood twist lock adhesive?

    Richard, thanks for the link. The really thin stuff would be a good substitute, and you are so correct about so much waste. One would have to buy about a mile too much in order to use it. There must be something available in smaller quantities that is available for this job. The silicone you...
  9. M

    1968 Hood twist lock adhesive?

    Looking for advice on adhesive to use on the little stainless steel plate that is attached to the hood at the base of the twist locks. It seems to have had some type of sticky double sided foam tape when removed for a repaint. Any experience or advice appreciated. Whatever was used originally...
  10. M

    1968 hood turn signal grille retaining nuts

    Thanks, Marty. I had hope that more folks would comment since all of the California Specials made in 68 had the turn signal hood that used these fasteners, but will have to make the assumption that as you note the nuts have the ordinary cad plate and the S-100 (special finish) designation noted...
  11. M

    1968 hood turn signal grille retaining nuts

    Looking for help determining the finish on the nuts that hold the hood turn signal assemblies to the hood. The little nuts have a rubber insert in them for sealing and carry Ford hardware number 353911-S100. What is the finish on these nuts - zinc? zinc di-chromate? a color indicating...
  12. M

    1968 Gap between console and gear selector indicator plate

    Thanks, Doug. Put the console back in yesterday and it is rock solid. I very much appreciate the help!
  13. M

    1968 Gap between console and gear selector indicator plate

    I found a place for two clips on the radio console part - don't see locations for the other two? I assume the clips are the same as door panel clips?
  14. M

    1968 Gap between console and gear selector indicator plate

    You guys are exactly correct - the little clips are missing! Look as if they are the same as the door panel clips? Also see that the light diffuser ( little flat plastic arch shaped with a white lens that goes over the hole for the light indicating which gear one has selected) is missing on...
  15. M

    1968 Gap between console and gear selector indicator plate

    Will take a close look at this soon. Thanks for the suggestions - that gap has irritated me for several years and the console is out of the car right now so will take this opportunity to get it right. Will let you know what is happening.
  16. M

    1968 Gap between console and gear selector indicator plate

    Noticed on so many images of consoles that many (most?) have a gap between the indicator plate and the console itself. The gear selector indicator sits on little "feet" and doesn't seem to have a direct connection with the console itself, so what is the fix for this malady. Ours fits poorly...
  17. M

    1968 Hood lock retainer screws

    Richard, the screws you are asking about are exactly the same as those used on the splash shield.
  18. M

    1968 Rocker panel molding clips (not) on front fender

    Richard, are you saying that all of your cars have the two small holes punched for the plastic rocker molding clip on the front fender?
  19. M

    1968 Rocker panel molding clips (not) on front fender

    While undergoing a repaint it became obvious that our CS, Scheduled build date of 4 - 03 had NO holes for a plastic rocker panel retaining clip on either front fender. The hole for the stud used in the front position on the moldings was there, just no place for the plastic clip that is shown in...
  20. M

    1968 Temp control cable

    Neil, I just put one in this afternoon. It came from NPD. The little plastic anchor was broken on the original. I taped the heater box end of the new to the control end of the old cable and pulled it from control side to the heater box side. A little wiggle now and then and it went right...
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