1/18 Scale Stripes

[Mosesatm]

Once in a while on eBay there are 1/24 scale GT/CS stripes for auction by a guy named Keith Marks. I recently asked him if he could get 1/18 scale stripes. Here is his response

While I could enlarge them to 1/18th I couldn't guarantee that they will
fit.

Still interested?

Keith Marks <mofobow@hotmail.com>

I think it would be worth ordering a set to see how they look so I'm going to order a white set if the price is reasonable.

Here is a link to his eBay auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/DECALS-68-Musta...89QQihZ011QQcategoryZ1190QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Midnight Special]

Thanks Arlie, keep us posted. I will be doing one of mine in Highland Green. The "California Special" script will be hard to do as well...

 

[Mosesatm]

The 1/24 scale kit I bought from Keith has the California Special script but it doesn't look as chrome-like as what's on the model. I'll see what he can do about that.

 

[68sunlitgold]

Arlie,
you can tell him I would also be interested in a black set if what you get looks good.

Doug

 

[68gt390]

The 1/24 scale kit I bought from Keith has the California Special script but it doesn't look as chrome-like as what's on the model. I'll see what he can do about that.

For those interested, the all Script on the GT/CS diecast was done in actual foil. You'll notice that if you run your hand over the script. It is actually glued on. The one I bought from minimuscle cars just happened to have an extra set of script in the box. Imagine that. From talking to Greenlight, any future remakes of the diecast will not use the foil for the script.

Don

 

[19HCS68]

I e-mailed Greenlight to see if decals could be obtained from them. This is their reply:
"Hi Gary -

I checked with my production manager and unfortunately we are unable to
get
decals from our factory. Sorry we could not be of any help.

Thank you for your e-mail and your interest in GreenLight's authentic
die-cast replicas."

I wish this could have worked out. What a bummer.

Gary

 

[PNewitt]

Only if I have the time, around doing the book, would I be able to use my own artwork of the stripes--and make 1:18th decals.

They can't be water-slide decals, because handling the model will pull them right off. They have to be a vinyl type, with a clear base, die cut, and self-adhesive. This is kind of tricky, and not easy to make.

I'm hoping to get these made, but not right now. I also plan on doing a list of stock 1968 colors and matching (or close to) model spray paint colors, such as Testors, Tamiya, etc.

Photo etch stainless would be the best for the "California Special" and "Mustang" script pieces. Resin cast wheels, with stock hubcaps would also be nice, too.

This is a wish list, but as a modelmaker, I would have access to making and producing these things.

There just isn't enough hours in the day--you know? But I'm working on it.

Paul.
p.s. anyone who wishes to make a comparison list of stock body & interior colors--and model spray paint colors--is welcome to "go for it". Real car touch up (spray) paint would match, but it is way too thick for a scale model, even at 1:18th scale. Outside research is always welcome!!

 

[Diesel Donna]

I noticed the foil script lifts right off with careful handling but I pressed it back on. I'm not that talented to try and paint my own model and apply the stripes.

 

[Midnight Special]

They can't be water-slide decals, because handling the model will pull them right off.

Outside research is always welcome!!

...For "water slide" decals; apply w/ warm water mixed with a spot of dish soap and follow up with "Solva-set" after placement. Finish w/ gloss overcoat and the decals will not come off w/ handling...

 

[PNewitt]

Since these 1:18th scale metal cars are regarded as "toys" and not scale models, you'd be hard pressed to see any of them with water-slide decals.

Using solv-a-set, and then clear coat might work for a styrene model (like an F-14, Ship or Nascar plastic model kit) but it isn't practical for this application. They crack over compound curves, and are a nightmare to apply.

Production, usually in China, uses precise rubber paint masks for graphics and stripes, just like thousands of other toys. The clear-base vinyl type stripes are very common, too. New GT/CS Stripes in the vinyl type material will be more consistent with the original way the (toy) was made.

I don't think that owners would want to mess with traditional decals, much less clear coat (which you'd have to mask to keep off the interior).

Paul N.

 

[Midnight Special]

Since these 1:18th scale metal cars are regarded as "toys" and not scale models, you'd be hard pressed to see any of them with water-slide decals.

Using solv-a-set, and then clear coat might work for a styrene model (like an F-14, Ship or Nascar plastic model kit) but it isn't practical for this application. They crack over compound curves, and are a nightmare to apply.

I don't think that owners would want to mess with traditional decals, much less clear coat (which you'd have to mask to keep off the interior).

Paul N.

....I couldn't disagree with you more. First off - I don't see what your difference is re: "regarded as toys vs scale models" and why water-slide decals won't apply. I'm not restoring a "toy", rather changing the color of a diecast car to duplicate the prototype I own in a most practical manner.

Secondly: I use waterslide decals and Solvaset specifically FOR compound curves, having done hundreds of N-scale (1/160th) rolling stock (steam locos, tank cars, etc...) with much finer striping and individual lettering techniques than required for 1/18. Application is a lot more efficient because of ability to manipulate into position repeatedly to satisfaction before it sets permanently.

Thirdly: It is the paint that these decals adhere to! It doesn't care if it's on styrene, brass, metal or whatever... As for "masking to keep (clear coat) off the interior" - aren't we getting stripes so we can repaint our cars to our desired colors? Do we not have to mask (or dis-assemble) to paint them anyway?

I understand your usual need to sound more important than the rest of us, but there is nothing wrong with the alternative I described. 'Only another suggestion for those who are up to it. All I can do now is post photos when I finish & permit the "owners" to decide for themselves.

The pic below is of 1/160th model trains I've been collecting for over 30 years. I have painted, striped and lettered approx. 40% of the 380 locomotives and 1,500+ cars I own, plus many more in 1/87 scale for other collectors using the method I described. I wouldn't ordinarily respond to you Paul except to affirm this as a viable alternative. Alternative only!... Microscale and others produce stripe decal sheets of all sizes and many colors. Yes, it is tedious, but not a nightmare to do. 'Just put on some good music and enjoy! )

 

[PNewitt]

I won't be cornered here by you to defend something as ludicrous as decal choice! Geesch, Tim, "What-ever"...!!

I'm only going on what the production folks do with scale (toy) cars made of metal. Picking up a heavy metal toy car requires more pressure to hold it, thereby your fingers are more likely to mess up water-slide decals--especially in the middle of the door. I think that's why the toy folks go with the vinyl version. By comparision, a tiny "N" scale box car is about 1/1000th the weight. (and I've done Model RR since 1972, and wrote a book on the subject). BTW-Micro Scale decals don't have stripes in the same proportions as the GT/CS stripe, anyway. But, hey, go for it.

I work on what I know, and what I've done. I freely offer what I know and have learned, too. Sorry, but sounding "more important" isn't in that plan...and it's not my problem if I do.

I,frankly, think folks are laughing at this whole silly idea to begin with.

Paul N.