1968 168 J-Code

[x-codegtcs]

My stupidity is going to be galvanized after this thread - but here goes: Once upon a time there was a GT/CS on a Bronco frame. Some poor sap bought it 1992 and proceeded to "restore" the car to it's original suspension. The front clip had been removed and was replaced. 10 years later another poor sap (me) bought it from the from the original "restorer". Was going to store it until I got to it, but a body shop buddy needed work so I had him sand blast, replace the sheet metal (not happy with welds), and epoxy primer. I was leaving like this until my boy wanted to restore it. We pulled it down this weekend and I thought I better check the front clip before moving on. There are only two measurements I can take easily and the front clip has issues...so, I am asking for votes of what to do. I do not have the experience to remove and re-attach an entire front clip so I am probably at least $2K (if I am lucky) to do it. So I can either part out what I have on the car, sell it, or eat another $2K+.

Votes?

 

[dalorzo_f]

Based on what you show, why part it out? IMHO its not going to bring more than selling the entire car.

With no VIN's on the aprons, none of the OEM drivetrain bits that made it a J code, and all the optional stuff like PS and PB gone, it is a big restoration project. Assuming the dash and door tags match?

So parted out as as a GT/CS shell with no GT/CS bits, and the issues above, it would be a hard sell for not much $.

I'd think someone will buy it and restore it, I'd say sell it as-is, the body looks too good to be parted out or scrapped.

If you do part it out, I'd be interested in the metal taillamp shields, been looking for an OEM pair.

Specifically what is wrong with the clip?

 

[Forsche]

Based on what you show, why part it out? IMHO its not going to bring more than selling the entire car.

With no VIN's on the aprons, none of the OEM drivetrain bits that made it a J code, and all the optional stuff like PS and PB gone, it is a big restoration project. Assuming the dash and door tags match?

So parted out as as a GT/CS shell with no GT/CS bits, and the issues above, it would be a hard sell for not much $.

I'd think someone will buy it and restore it, I'd say sell it as-is, the body looks too good to be parted out or scrapped.

If you do part it out, I'd be interested in the metal taillamp shields, been looking for an OEM pair.

Specifically what is wrong with the clip?

Are the tail lamp shields the same part that somethingspecial was recently looking to sell? In classifieds as "taillight block off plates"

 

[rvrtrash]

I would have a frame shop check the front end and see if it's really out or not. They may be able to pull it around if it's not to far off. If it can't be tweaked, I don't think there would be much value in a stripped coupe shell with a bad front clip, CS or not. At that point I think your options are either get what you can and eat the loss, have the front clip redone or take the front clip off and put an aftermarket Mustang II type clip on it. I'd vote for #3, and then drop a 5.0 Coyote motor/tranny in it. If you're going to be in it more than it'll ever be worth, and you just look at it as a learning tool for your son and bonding time for the two of you, go all out and modernize the steering, suspension, brakes, drivetrain and build something you can have fun with and drive the heck out of it. When your son takes it to school, he'll be the envy of the kids with the cookie cutter Accords.

Steve

 

[somethingspecial]

Still available

The plates are still available, $200.00. Original plates. Just keep in mind, Shipping to Canada was $40.00 USD. Don't know what shipping Down Under would be. If you would like me to check, PM me your address and I will find out tomorrow if interested.
http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10382

 

[robert campbell]

If you are interested there are numerous sheet metal stamped date codes all over your car. On the interior structure behind the rear seat. The rear quarters in the trunk well the keeps the water out of the trunk. The taillight panel on the car as well as the end pieces on the quarters that the GT/CS end caps bolt to. The more you look the more of them you find if you co under the car and such.

Your car is in the perfect condition to see these. They should have dates before your build date on the Marti report. Obviously the front stuff has been replaced. They are also on the hood and fender flanges where the fender bolts onto the engine compartment flange.

They can vary a bit depending on the stock on the shelves at the time. But I have found them reliable as a clue when it lines up with the build date. The tag that was on the steering box can be another clue as well. I guess the door tag is gone? That again is not all that uncommon.

I would do some more research and sell it as a real GT/CS if some of the above stuff starts to line up with the Marti report. As parts, I also do not think you will get much. But as a complete car even if the front clip is not perfect it is worth a lot more.

I also ask, what is wrong with the front clip?

If the diagonal measurements are in the ball park up top and the forward frame rails are the same height off the floor, then go for it. To measure the height from the floor, put it on jack stands right behind the fire wall so the tires are hanging to get the suspension out of the equation. If lots of things start to look straight and the fenders and grill mate up, then heck, good to go.

Rob

 

[x-codegtcs]

Thanks guys - I could only check two measurements (the others per the spec on the Ford shop manual are not identical to the construction on this or my other original x-code; or I cannot measure accurately due to angles) I measured between the center of the holes on the front frame rails (just below the driver and passenger side) and it measured 0.25" wider than spec - the x-code was right on the money. Then I measured the width - center to center - on the sway bar mounts. These were narrow by about 3/16". So that is almost 1/2" out of parallel. The driver front fender lines up good with the door, the passenger fender has a fairly big gap at the top making it appear that the right frame is a bit low.

I have a very good history on this car and this is a real GT/CS. I also have most of the parts to complete it, including a 302 (replacement block) but 68 4V heads and intake manifold, most PS and AC parts. Far from numbers matching, but far from thoroughbred. Another oddity is the previous cat put 71 mustang discs/spindles on it...better spindles, but one of those things that have to be accounted for.

I have an appointment in 2 weeks to put it on the rack to see what can be done. I am hoping it is close enough to pull into spec. Hopefully good news in the next two weeks.

 

[x-codegtcs]

Are the tail lamp shields the same part that somethingspecial was recently looking to sell? In classifieds as "taillight block off plates"

Yes, the same.

 

[x-codegtcs]

If you are interested there are numerous sheet metal stamped date codes all over your car. On the interior structure behind the rear seat. The rear quarters in the trunk well the keeps the water out of the trunk. The taillight panel on the car as well as the end pieces on the quarters that the GT/CS end caps bolt to. The more you look the more of them you find if you co under the car and such.

Your car is in the perfect condition to see these. They should have dates before your build date on the Marti report. Obviously the front stuff has been replaced. They are also on the hood and fender flanges where the fender bolts onto the engine compartment flange.

They can vary a bit depending on the stock on the shelves at the time. But I have found them reliable as a clue when it lines up with the build date. The tag that was on the steering box can be another clue as well. I guess the door tag is gone? That again is not all that uncommon.

I would do some more research and sell it as a real GT/CS if some of the above stuff starts to line up with the Marti report. As parts, I also do not think you will get much. But as a complete car even if the front clip is not perfect it is worth a lot more.

I also ask, what is wrong with the front clip?

If the diagonal measurements are in the ball park up top and the forward frame rails are the same height off the floor, then go for it. To measure the height from the floor, put it on jack stands right behind the fire wall so the tires are hanging to get the suspension out of the equation. If lots of things start to look straight and the fenders and grill mate up, then heck, good to go.

Rob

Rob - thanks for the places to look. I have attached a bunch of photos of the dates - all in February and early March (produced 3/26/68). They all seem to match with the exception of the passenger fender with an "A 84" - maybe a service part produced in 1984? The front clip is all dated September. I also attached a photo of the door tag - tough to read as it is covered with black paint though. Also a photo the day I stripped of the fiberglass parts revealing the original Diamond Blue paint. It has been in the registry since Paul's second book - although erroneously labeled as a Wimbeldon White car in both of the last two books despite the Marti report. I am sure that it carried over from the previous owner. There are also some holes on the tranny tunnel that have been welded up - if I were to guess, I bet they tie to the console attachment points.

Anyway, it was cool going through and sleuthing it out! Thanks for telling me where to look! Thanks!

Bryce

 

[robert campbell]

Bryce,
This is fun stuff!! Keep that bad boy!!

Rob