For Sale 1968 GT/CS Highland Green 289/302

[Batgirl89]

John and Sheryl,
If I had your money I would burn mine!! Will you adopt me?? I can turn a mean wrench!! Tried to get Neil to adopt me, but he is already my Dad!!

Rob

You have the best dad ever!!

I know it looks bad!!! we are car poor now! but, this car super special. I have to sell my beloved Grey GT/CS (Im doing an "exchange") (except Im a car hoarder.......:embarass


Scott, Steve, Neil, Hatchdog Thank you! (Hatchdog im glad I saved you)

Neil, it has working AC! so you wont have to put it in this one for me.

Yeah! I finally got my AC car, so needed here in Livermore. I cant drive my classic cars if its over 78 outside, just too uncomfortable.

 

[Batgirl89]

I haven't had much time to climb all over her and check things out, but we did bond on the drive home. (We still have to name her), maybe Jewel, since she's a rare Jewel or Cali, IDK) (We already have our rare "GEM" and Ruby)

Trunk is pristine. Interior is beautiful. Dash is amazing Ken cleaned it up. Several boxes of new and original parts to look through (its like Christmas)

I took a few minutes before work this am, here is some of what I love and appreciate.

 

[Mosesatm]

Congratulations and thank you, I was racking my brain trying to figure out how I could come up with the funds to buy Arlie’s six banger. :grin:

I’ll keep it and park next to your car at shows so people can see the difference between a standard coupe and a GT/CS.

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie, your Stang is BEAU-TI-FULL!! I love it and it will turn many heads and is unique in its own way!!

Rob

Hey Sheryl, are you ready to install that carb yet?? You picked up one great looking GT/CS and it looks way original and unmolested!!

Riob

 

[Batgirl89]

Arlie, your Stang is BEAU-TI-FULL!! I love it and it will turn many heads and is unique in its own way!!

Rob

Hey Sheryl, are you ready to install that carb yet?? You picked up one great looking GT/CS and it looks way original and unmolested!!

Rob

I Love Arlie's new beautiful mustang too!

Rob, we are about to fix the massive exhaust leak on Gem's head, and checking out the rest of the motor, then will get that carb on 2-4 weeks (I think)

 

[hatchdog]

I’ll keep it and park next to your car at shows so people can see the difference between a standard coupe and a GT/CS.

Great idea, looking forward to seeing this beauty! Being the same color will add to the presentation! My dream is to get a three speed six banger in driver condition for a putt around car. Too many dreams, not enough means.:grin:

 

[Batgirl89]

Where do I purchase the headliner? Vinyl top?

Do we paint it first then do the headliner and top?

 

[Ruppstang]

To do it correctly you need to pull out the front and back glass, then have it painted, Install the head liner, then the top and reinstall the glass and trim.
The headliner glues around the pinch weld for the front and back glass so there is no good way to replace the headliner with out pulling the glass. If the glass is in original seal I bet they are cracked and need to be replaced anyway.
Good Luck.
Marty

 

[Batgirl89]

To do it correctly you need to pull out the front and back glass, then have it painted, Install the head liner, then the top and reinstall the glass and trim.
The headliner glues around the pinch weld for the front and back glass so there is no good way to replace the headliner with out pulling the glass. If the glass is in original seal I bet they are cracked and need to be replaced anyway.
Good Luck.
Marty

Marty, we will pull the glass & get new seals. Want it done right and I want to be able to drive it in the rain (when our F350 & Excursion doesn't start/need repair, the mustangs are my go to vehicles, Ive been driving my Grey GT/CS this month in the rain!)

Where should I purchase parchment headliner & parchment top?

I will also be asking you for help getting the Convenience Group going. (I found the thread on concoursmustang) I have power to all bulb sockets with my test light. Im going to replace all bulbs and go from there. Belts works perfect already, and Fuel we will deal with later. But Park and Door both stay on. (when I removed the hose from the parking brake I was hoping it would just work)
Thank you for your help!! Sheryl

 

[robert campbell]

Sheryl,
My car had the Convenience Group. I had them all working. The door ajar is way fun to work on.... NOT...... The door ajar switch is part of the door latch mechanism and way NOT fun to work on. Hope someone has long thin arms to work through the door openings with the inner door panel off. Once you get a look at them they are simple, but not available to my knowledge and a pain to work on.

Rob

 

[franklinair]

IIRC, the switches on the door latch mechanism are pretty reliable. I'd start by checking wiring/connections.
The Low Fuel sensor on the fuel tank sending unit is a temperature sensor that sends a Ground for the light when the gas level gets low. Don't know who repairs or sells these fuel sending units.

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

My door switches had corrosion on the contacts and needed to be cleaned. Lots of fun to remove and replace, but they worked when done.

Rob

 

[Ruppstang]

Marty, we will pull the glass & get new seals. Want it done right and I want to be able to drive it in the rain (when our F350 & Excursion doesn't start/need repair, the mustangs are my go to vehicles, Ive been driving my Grey GT/CS this month in the rain!)

Where should I purchase parchment headliner & parchment top?

I will also be asking you for help getting the Convenience Group going. (I found the thread on concoursmustang) I have power to all bulb sockets with my test light. Im going to replace all bulbs and go from there. Belts works perfect already, and Fuel we will deal with later. But Park and Door both stay on. (when I removed the hose from the parking brake I was hoping it would just work)
Thank you for your help!! Sheryl

I have had good luck using TMI products purchased from NPD. Best tip on the headliner and top is go slow, be patent do not trim off too much at a time.

The Convenience lights are one of the toughest things that I have worked on. There are six harness for it. Good idea to start with new bulbs Seat belts UL 1445 Park Brake UL 256 Door ajar UL256 Low Fuel UL1445. The UL256 are tough to find because the flash which help to not melt the lens plastic. I may have a extra. Most likely the brake and door lights are just out of adjustment. As Rob said getting to the one in the door can be a challenge. The low fuel is the tough one because you must have a original sender and then most likely the thermal resister on it is burned out. They are available but are thirty some dollars. I burned out my first on trying to test it. There is too much about this to type so PM me and I will give you my phone number and we can talk about it.
Marty
Marty

 

[Mosesatm]

Great idea, looking forward to seeing this beauty! Being the same color will add to the presentation! My dream is to get a three speed six banger in driver condition for a putt around car. Too many dreams, not enough means.:grin:

Here's one that's overpriced, and an automatic, but they've been trying to sell it for a long time so the price is probably negotiable.
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1968/ford/mustang/100948715#

 

[Batgirl89]

Here's one that's overpriced, and an automatic, but they've been trying to sell it for a long time so the price is probably negotiable.
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1968/ford/mustang/100948715#

15k and its missing a hub cap!

 

[Batgirl89]

Rob, I have little T-Rex arms and they are still healing(cuts & bruises) from last weekend re-connecting the tubes to the defrost vents in '68 bronco

Neil & Marty, thanks for the info, Im going to dig around & do some cleaning of contacts. I finally have time today. Ill let you know how it goes. Sheryl

 

[robert campbell]

Sheryl,
Get the door panels off and look at the latch from inside. Have someone move the door latch and if you will look they are easy to identify. Maybe a squirt of WD-40 will work, but in my case.... Not..... As you know make sure the bulbs are good.

I may have access to the old fuel sender from my car. That was the only light that I could not get to work. I think it was the sending unit and I may be able to get it back. It went with the car.

Rob

 

[Batgirl89]

All bulbs work

Park: Works when I put grounded test light on it. I have power at bullet green wire going into top of sensor. Brake handle has nub to depress sensor to shut off light, But its not lighting up the "park" light when the brake is pulled out.

Door: Blinking bulb wont shut off
Ive taken the doors apart, WD40 inside door latch and sanded & contact greased wire connector.

How does the door latch work the convenience light?

I think this is the first time the passenger door had been cracked open. Driver door had armhole in water shield. There are not speaker holes cut under the door grills.

Rob, I saw that WCCC makes a repo fuel sending unit w/sensor! (Its out of stock, I wonder if they will get more in) https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.c...ugar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=76

Im going to have a drink now, car torn apart, nothing working or fixed.

 

[Ruppstang]

The Brake and Door lights are just grounds to light the light. You need to see if the arm on the door switch breaks contact when it is latched. I would take the brake light out and check with a meter when it is depressed it should not be grounded. It may just need to be cleaned up.

 

[Batgirl89]

The Brake and Door lights are just grounds to light the light. You need to see if the arm on the door switch breaks contact when it is latched. I would take the brake light out and check with a meter when it is depressed it should not be grounded. It may just need to be cleaned up.

Thank you Marty! You give me hope
I'll try and do this in the next few days (and I'll call you if it doesnt work)