Wanted 1968 J-code GT/CS or HCS Project

[classicsguy]

Starting to search for a J-code GT/CS or HCS project. 4 speed or auto. Any condition will be considered but it has to be a project.
Thanks

 

[classicsguy]

Still looking...

 

[Mosesatm]

How about the brown one in Yakima, if you can get it at a decent price?

 

[classicsguy]

Saw that one shortly after placing the wanted ad but 2 problems
Asking price
Distance for transportation costs

 

[GregL]

Where are you located?

 

[classicsguy]

I am in San Juan Puerto Rico.

 

[1968Kanada]

No one seems to be snapping up the Yakima car, which is no surprise...it has nothing going for it. Its been roasting in the hot Yakima sun for 20 years. Can never be made original again and its too expensive to fix just for the "joy" of having a brown, (or equally bad/worse), seafoam green on gold interior car. I had a line on black one, plain jane, no options, no motor, no tranny etc but apparently rust free. He ended up selling that car to his neighbour before I got a look at it. My advice, keep combing the internet for one.

 

[Mosesatm]

The asking price doesn't necessarily mean anything.

I bought a the Road Warrior GT/CS for $11,000 when the asking price was $19,000. Patience was needed, though. It took months for the seller to give up and accept my offer.

The J-code was listed for $17,500 and I got it for $13,000. I made the offer and forgot about it until that owner also gave up trying to sell it and called me.

If you are confident a car isn't worth what the owner is asking offer less and wait.

 

[rvrtrash]

The asking price doesn't necessarily mean anything.

I bought a the Road Warrior GT/CS for $11,000 when the asking price was $19,000. Patience was needed, though. It took months for the seller to give up and accept my offer.

The J-code was listed for $17,500 and I got it for $13,000. I made the offer and forgot about it until that owner also gave up trying to sell it and called me.

If you are confident a car isn't worth what the owner is asking offer even less and wait.

I agree. Contrary to majority opinion, I think the Yakima car has potential, to the right person for the right purpose. I taught my kids since they were little, "If you don't ask, you don't get". Still say you'd have to get it at the right price, and shipping to PR would be a real deal breaker. I will say that even though I'm currently focused on getting my '71 done (ok, even started on), I could be convinced to drag it home if the money made sense.

Steve

 

[Don]

Price to ship a POS vs fully restored is basically the same and then you will have to pay to ship all the parts you will need to restore if you by a POS. Since you are going to incur major shipping expense, either way, you will be way better off buying a completely done car.

 

[Ruppstang]

You could buy the car and fill it with most of the needed parts to restore for little more than just shipping the car.
Marty

 

[Mosesatm]

It's odd how the people who are trashing the car are the ones who haven't seen it in person, and the ones who are sticking up for it have seen it.

 

[Mosesatm]

Price to ship a POS vs fully restored is basically the same and then you will have to pay to ship all the parts you will need to restore if you by a POS. Since you are going to incur major shipping expense, either way, you will be way better off buying a completely done car.

But he wants a project car, not a restored car.

 

[1968Kanada]

I don't need to go see a car that has sat out needlessly in the weather for 20+ years to come to the conclusion that its a POS. The interior is melted, that means ALL of the rubber is shot, doors, windows....you name it, shot. I have no doubt that mice have done a number on the wiring. What the rodents didn't wreck wiring wise the owner did by Mickey Mousing in an interior from another car that was (factory) incorrect. Judging by the awful job on the hood pins, the rear tail light panel and the rear spoiler corner there are more horrors in store for the person that buys this thing. The motor is wrong, the engine is wrong, (the sidepipes are just plain wrong), the Mach 1 seats are wrong. The hood looks like its toast. You are going to have to pretty much gut this thing and start from scratch. Then what? Concours? With the wrong drive train? Not. Paint it some non hideous color, put a decent 302 with a T-5 in it and kiss the 289 and the Seafoam green good bye. Of course this is after 10-15K in body work and at least 5K in drive train purchases. Then what do you have? A $20,000 car that you paid 30K for. Save your pennies, don't buy garbage. Plenty of nice ones out there and this aint one of 'em. That my friends is why its still for sale.

 

[azbeneman]

The asking price doesn't necessarily mean anything.

I bought a the Road Warrior GT/CS for $11,000 when the asking price was $19,000. Patience was needed, though. It took months for the seller to give up and accept my offer.

The J-code was listed for $17,500 and I got it for $13,000. I made the offer and forgot about it until that owner also gave up trying to sell it and called me.

If you are confident a car isn't worth what the owner is asking offer even less and wait.

I second this advice. When I bought my car last September, the seller was asking $25k. The car was complete but tired. The body was solid, but it needed some fiberglass work. I knew going in what I wanted to do to it (full restoration, very high end driver). After 2 months on Craig's List only 2 other people came to look at it, neither was serious. I offered $11k, seller refused. 2 weeks later I upped my offer to $13k and that bought it.

I wasn't trying to be a "low baller" or a cheap skate. I was very detailed with the seller on what I was going to do with the car and what that costs. I still keep the seller involved by updating him on the restoration progress.

I feel being honest still counts for something. The seller knew I was not there too make money off him, and he knows I am currently a couple grand over my original restoration budget.:grin:

 

[Mosesatm]

I don't need to go see a car that has sat out needlessly in the weather for 20+ years to come to the conclusion that its a POS. The interior is melted, that means ALL of the rubber is shot, doors, windows....you name it, shot. I have no doubt that mice have done a number on the wiring. What the rodents didn't wreck wiring wise the owner did by Mickey Mousing in an interior from another car that was (factory) incorrect. Judging by the awful job on the hood pins, the rear tail light panel and the rear spoiler corner there are more horrors in store for the person that buys this thing. The motor is wrong, the engine is wrong, (the sidepipes are just plain wrong), the Mach 1 seats are wrong. The hood looks like its toast. You are going to have to pretty much gut this thing and start from scratch. Then what? Concours? With the wrong drive train? Not. Paint it some non hideous color, put a decent 302 with a T-5 in it and kiss the 289 and the Seafoam green good bye. Of course this is after 10-15K in body work and at least 5K in drive train purchases. Then what do you have? A $20,000 car that you paid 30K for. Save your pennies, don't buy garbage. Plenty of nice ones out there and this aint one of 'em. That my friends is why its still for sale.

Are you by any chance Jim's brother?

 

[GregL]

Are you by any chance Jim's brother?

........:rofl:

 

[Don]

But he wants a project car, not a restored car.

Yeah but as we all know any old car, even fully restored, is a perpetual project :grin:
I have done the ship a car full of parts before and despite being warned, sure enough, many of the parts somehow went missing upon arrival.

 

[classicsguy]

But he wants a project car, not a restored car.

You are correct Arlie...looking for a project...no hurry
Placed ad in the right forum

 

[robert campbell]

As both Arlie and Steve have said, this car has potential for a nice GT/CS. Soft goods (interior), rubber goods (window trim and gaskets) and even wiring are all easy and cheap.

The high cost of any restoration is RUST REPAIR. The problem I have with a decent looking car that someone is selling for under $20k is what has been hidden. You can drag magnets down a car all day, but it can be tough to see all the work required. Kinda like the foundation of a house, it needs to be sound. Other things can be fixed.

Cars outside in Eastern Washington seemed to have little more than surface rust. I would rather look a car that has bad paint and nothing hidden rather than a car someone has but a "blow and go" to quote Neil to sell it for more. I have say that is what happened to a nice young lady on our site. She paid a high price for a car that had a lot of rust. She trusted someone that told her it was a good car that did not take a hard look at it. And it is hard to offer a lower price to a car that someone will see shiny paint and nothing more. That is the dilemma for knowledgeable Mustang people to try to help a person price a car. Even if we see the flaws under the new paint, someone else will step up and pay too much.

If Steve and Arlie say this car has potential, I would offer a lower price and wait. Cars like this turn people off immediately and they do not sell easy like a dolled up turd with a lot of rust. They both say $5k or $6k. for that this car has a lot of potential.

I like Marty's idea of buying it for a lesser price and loading it up with alot of stuff to restore it and then ship it.

And Tim and I are in a bidding war for the side pipes!!!

Rob