1968 Car randomly dies

[Mosesatm]

If the fan is making noises and grinding it will draw a lot more power than it would normally, heating up its feed wire.

 

[franklinair]

+1

Neil

 

[Batgirl89]

If the fan is making noises and grinding it will draw a lot more power than it would normally, heating up its feed wire.

ok. Thank you Arlie and Neil. I should tear into that blower motor.



Also, I don't like how the electric choke is hooked up, spliced into blk/red stripe wire (140, I think)
where would the correct connection be for the edelbrock electric choke


the car has an occasional miss, it seems like an electrical miss, to me

 

[robert campbell]

That wire is the keyed power source to the back up lights. You need to make sure they got the wire that is hot and not the return wire from the neutral lockout/backup switch on the tranny, when the key is in the run position. Simple check to see if the wire is hot when you turn the ignition switch to the run position and check for power on and off when turning the key.

I use that wire almost exclusively for an electric choke. If you wish you can go all the way to the ignition switch and stack another wire on its hot lug. I have never had a problem using that wire. Not fond of the "u-haul trailer" connector they used. I solder a connection it for best contact.

Fords of the 60's era did not use electric chokes and there are few good points to get a key on, power, source. By the way, this wire is also hot in the accessory position. So if you use the accessory to listen to the radio, you will start the choke sequence. Not many people do that in these old cars.

Rob

 

[p51]

ok. Thank you Arlie and Neil. I should tear into that blower motor.



Also, I don't like how the electric choke is hooked up, spliced into blk/red stripe wire (140, I think)
where would the correct connection be for the edelbrock electric choke


the car has an occasional miss, it seems like an electrical miss, to me

From past posts, it seems that you bought (and installed?) the Pertronix relay to power the Pertronix coil and ignitor. If so, you can use the same wire that runs from the relay to the coil to hook to the electric choke (that's what I do). This wire will only be "hot" during "run" and not during "accessory". That way you do not get a current draw from the choke when just sitting in the car listening to the radio with the key in the "accessory" position (per what Rob noted about wire #140)

 

[Batgirl89]

That wire is the keyed power source to the back up lights. You need to make sure they got the wire that is hot and not the return wire from the neutral lockout/backup switch on the tranny, when the key is in the run position. Simple check to see if the wire is hot when you turn the ignition switch to the run position and check for power on and off when turning the key.

I use that wire almost exclusively for an electric choke. If you wish you can go all the way to the ignition switch and stack another wire on its hot lug. I have never had a problem using that wire. Not fond of the "u-haul trailer" connector they used. I solder a connection it for best contact.

Fords of the 60's era did not use electric chokes and there are few good points to get a key on, power, source. By the way, this wire is also hot in the accessory position. So if you use the accessory to listen to the radio, you will start the choke sequence. Not many people do that in these old cars.

Rob

Rob, thank you. I will check it and if its correct, and if it is, keep it for now.
James, thank you for the option!

 

[Batgirl89]

my blower motor doesn't have the hose, its missing

any advice on getting the fan out? do I have to take my console out?

 

[Mosesatm]

If I remember correctly you can't get to all the blower screws without loosening or removing the housing, and to get there you'll need to remove the console

 

[Batgirl89]

If I remember correctly you can't get to all the blower screws without loosening or removing the housing, and to get there you'll need to remove the console

Thank you Arlie

 

[CougarCJ]

the car has an occasional miss, it seems like an electrical miss, to me

Question, this is for your C code 289 GT/CS? Check your firing order if your engine has ever been rebuilt with new cam.

Most all new small block Ford cams use the 351W firing order. Do not use the firing order imprinted on your stock cast iron intake manifold.

 

[robert campbell]

Scott,
I am a bit confused. All 289's used the 15426378 firing order stamped on the intake. So did 302's until the advent of the 302 roller cam shaft motor in the mid 80's. Then the 302 switched to the 351 Windsor firing order.

This is to the best of my knowledge. One does need to be careful when selecting a cam these days as some of the small block ford cams do use a Windsor order.

Rob

 

[CougarCJ]

Scott,
I am a bit confused. All 289's used the 15426378 firing order stamped on the intake. So did 302's until the advent of the 302 roller cam shaft motor in the mid 80's. Then the 302 switched to the 351 Windsor firing order.

This is to the best of my knowledge. One does need to be careful when selecting a cam these days as some of the small block ford cams do use a Windsor order.

Rob

My mistake, was editing too many times.

Most of the Ford small block cams that are sold new, use the more modern 351W firing order.

 

[Mosesatm]

My mistake, was editing too many times.

Most of the Ford small block cams that are sold new, use the more modern 351W firing order.

Correct, it's a better firing order for smoothness and cross-firing. But putting one in an old Windsor can really ruin an old fart's day trying to get the thing to run properly using the old firing order.

Then there are the engine builders who like to use an old 302 grind cam in 351s for some obscure reason. That is also frustrating if you're not aware of it.

Ask Bill and I how we know!!! We spent hours trying to figure it out until we finally called the builder and asked him. Yep, he used a 302 cam in a 351!!!

 

[Batgirl89]

I decided I better finish getting the blow motor out today. A year ago, I had taken out 3 of the 4 screws, could not get to the 4th one with the console in. Trying to get the console out, of course, I cracked it in several places. I can't get the blow motor out. Im done. Im going to put it back together and if running the AC heats up the ignition wires I won't use the AC (even tho its one of the main reasons I sold my other wonderful, great, beloved CS for this one. Sad very sad)

Ive only driven the car once in over a year. John and a buddy tuned it and found the coil wire was bad. I only drove it 5 miles home, but it ran better.

We haven't worked on any of the cars in over a year. Im kinda burnt out on the old cars, they are too much work. They are not bringing any joy.

 

[franklinair]

The factory in-dash A/C system is the biggest PITA to work on. I always allow 1 -2 days and a LOT of patience to tackle that system. Driver seat out, console out, radio out, ashtray out, heat deflector out @ floor. (Don't forget the blower stud that goes through the firewall.) Wish I was closer (and younger) to help you. Go slow, be patient, take periodic breaks. I'm currently working on the A/C Control Switch, which is buried near the defrost duct adjacent to the center air register. Believe me, I feel your pain !

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

My biggest joy is fixings old broken stuff. To succeed is so much fun.

My approach for a car that is not a daily driver is slow and steady. Go to the garage and set a small goal for the day. Like get the console out. an without a doubt the biggest punch in the gut is to break an old good part. Ok, it happened...… Try to get past it. It hurts.

But the joy of fixing it is far greater. Do what Dad says and make it easy. Remove the seats and all the stuff in the way. Never try to tackle under the dash work which is the worst part of any Mustang job with the seats in. I will even take the shifter out!! Your back will thank you!

You will get past this and only the success will be a memory!!! You can't let the car win. My other thing is to do one project at a time and do not collect more projects until the one is done.

Or put that bad boy on a trailer and bring it to me! You cannot give up on such a cool car!!

Rob

 

[Batgirl89]

The factory in-dash A/C system is the biggest PITA to work on. I always allow 1 -2 days and a LOT of patience to tackle that system. Driver seat out, console out, radio out, ashtray out, heat deflector out @ floor. (Don't forget the blower stud that goes through the firewall.) Wish I was closer (and younger) to help you. Go slow, be patient, take periodic breaks. I'm currently working on the A/C Control Switch, which is buried near the defrost duct adjacent to the center air register. Believe me, I feel your pain !

Neil

.

Neil, Thank you for your words of wisdom & encouragement. I appreciate it.
After my little melt down last night, I got out there this am and just went slower and didn't worry about time.

I hope your A/C control switch goes smoothly, keep us posted

Thank you Sheryl

 

[Batgirl89]

My biggest joy is fixings old broken stuff. To succeed is so much fun.

My approach for a car that is not a daily driver is slow and steady. Go to the garage and set a small goal for the day. Like get the console out. an without a doubt the biggest punch in the gut is to break an old good part. Ok, it happened...… Try to get past it. It hurts.

But the joy of fixing it is far greater. Do what Dad says and make it easy. Remove the seats and all the stuff in the way. Never try to tackle under the dash work which is the worst part of any Mustang job with the seats in. I will even take the shifter out!! Your back will thank you!

You will get past this and only the success will be a memory!!! You can't let the car win. My other thing is to do one project at a time and do not collect more projects until the one is done.

Or put that bad boy on a trailer and bring it to me! You cannot give up on such a cool car!!

Rob

Rob,
Thank you for your support, I appreciate it. And you are right, the joy and satisfaction of fixing broken stuff, there is nothing like that feeling! John and I were talking last night about having too many projects, and coming up with a plan, and one at a time, so we can see some progress.

We do have a car trailer and who know might end up on your door step!
We use to drive upon to OR and WA in a day for horse shows ect.
Thank you! Sheryl

 

[Batgirl89]

Put the 3 screws back in the blower motor, put the T handle back on the shift, put driver seat back in.

Drove the car to work and to run errands after. (got up to 65 mph!)

Car ran the best it has ever run (because it was tuned)

Experimented with blower fan. And felt the yellow and black/grn stripe wires to ignition to see if they heat up

Ran fan on high with vent (no change in wire temp), ran on high with heater (felt a little warm). Ran AC (felt a little warm) (but not hot, I expect this is normal from what we talked about early in thread. current/resistance

Car gets angry when AC is turned on. At a stop, RPM lowers and sounds like it starts to miss. putting load on motor, but idle doesn't compensate. do I need a relay? what can I do to fix this (or just put in Neutral at stop lights)

 

[franklinair]

Just turn the Idle set screw 1/4 turn C/W as viewed from the front. This will bump the Idle RPM up a tad. See if it runs smooth then in Drive, A/C ON.

Neil