1968 Engine options

[Firstmustang]

Hello all,

Long story short I've taken the original engine out of my C code GT/CS. Initially because no matter how many times I flushed the radiator the fluid remained black. Once I started removing parts I realized the engine in general needs a cleaning and paint refresh as well.

My options at this point:
1) Now that the engine is out of the car what should I do next. It was rebuilt by the previous owner circa 2005 and I believe bored out .030 over (need to locate paperwork to verify). Do I do a complete rebuild, can this be done without more cylinder boring?

2) If I don't do a rebuild how do I ensure that all of the nasty rust and black is out of the engine for when I install new water pump, radiator and other new necessary components.

While the engine is out no matter which option I choose I plan on a full under hood refresh with paint on the engine and engine compartment.

Any suggestions on my next move?

Thank you.

 

[franklinair]

Google Gannon auto coolant filter. Good product.
Have you flushed the block?
Has the radiator been tested (flow, blockage)?
What are engine compression readings?
If you opt to o'haul the engine, just honing the cylinders would probably be OK, but should be checked.
If you o'haul, BE SURE to 'boil' the block to remove any trash/gook.

Neil

 

[Firstmustang]

During the flush I followed the following process;
1) drained the radiator cold
2) filled with water and radiator cleaner
3) drove until boiling hot (temp was pegged on hot!!)
4) re-drained once cooled- fluid was black
5) repeated steps 1-4 again
6) fluid was just as black - so I decided to pull hoses and radiator and thermostat

I'm installing a new radiator, thermostat and housing, water pump, and hoses.

I have not checked compression. Any recommendations on good engine shops in Dallas Fort Worth area?

If I rebuild I'm going all in: cleaning block, re-painting etc. Previous rebuild didn't do the car justice. She ran great but looked a bit tired.

 

[Firstmustang]

Pictures of my engine pre tear-down and post tear-down.

 

[BigJim]

As long as it's out I would take the block and heads to a reputable machine shop for honing and a good cleaning. While there have them checked for cracks and have new bearings and seals installed along with the valves redone.

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[CougarCJ]

Pictures of my engine pre tear-down and post tear-down.

That harmonic balancer looks pretty big for a 1968 289 engine?

 

[Firstmustang]

Question is if they according to the previous owner bored out the cylinders to the size equivalent of a 302 would that require a larger harmonic balancer?

 

[franklinair]

The increased cubic inches from 289 to 302 is done by increasing the stroke- not the bore.
The block bores are the same in either engine.
Later model small blocks used a heavier weighted harmonic balancer & flywheel/flexplate.
What is the casting number on the block? (Remove the starter to see it.)

Neil

 

[whodat]

My 289 is a 302 block.


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[robert campbell]

If the first rebuild was competent, I doubt that it has many miles on it and the .030 overbore "should" clean up fine. More than likely you can reuse the pistons. Have a competent shop boil out the block, and install fresh rings and bearings after the crank is inspected. Have the heads refreshed and you should be could to go. This should not kill your pocket book as much as a total rebuild. All based on how good the prior work was.

Now Rob the performance guy steps in! You could re-cam the motor and bolt on a set of Edelbrock E Street heads and go to a shorty header and pick up quite a few ponies!! Or step up to some long tube Ford Power Train Applications headers. The E street heads are only 1,000 bucks a pair assembled. It almost costs that much to redo stock heads. More power equals mo fun!!

I can step you through it! I love so spend other peoples money!!

Rob

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5023/overview/make/ford

http://www.fordpowertrain.com/347step.htm

 

[Firstmustang]

That's great!

Part of my dilemma is deciding between the purest GT/CS and more ponies. As she sits she is pure stock (minus the after market AC) but for the most part stock. I don't want to lose the purity of the stock condition by pumping her up too much but on the other hand...it would be fun to have something more under the hood.

What is the consensus opinion on the impact on resale value by adding improvements other than stock parts? Do I lose the exclusivity of the GT/CS by adding things that could be put on any other Mustang out on the road. This is not a concourse car by any means but it is original looking (many parts have been changed to NOS parts). I rebuilt the suspension, steering, etc a few years back with NOS parts.

Thanks.

 

[robert campbell]

IMO you will not devalue your car in the least to add some ponies. Unless it is a concurs car. Modifications that are easily reversed do not de-value it and IMO enhance its value. Many cars on this site have Cobra dress kits and chrome air cleaners.

The key to more power is the heads and headers. The E Streets are fantastic and I have installed a few pairs of them already. We can build a great street engine with no loss of vacuum with perfect street characteristics. I can recommend several levels of power based on what you want to spend. All that do not require increased top RPM and will not harm your stock rotating assembly. You will notice a nice throaty sound that will be orgasmic!! But we won't get stupid and build a quality package.

I hope a couple guys on the site and weigh in on my experience on this subject. the change will surprise you. I have built many such combinations.

Rob

 

[CougarCJ]

IMO you will not devalue your car in the least to add some ponies. Unless it is a concurs car. Modifications that are easily reversed do not de-value it and IMO enhance its value. Many cars on this site have Cobra dress kits and chrome air cleaners.

The key to more power is the heads and headers. The E Streets are fantastic and I have installed a few pairs of them already. We can build a great street engine with no loss of vacuum with perfect street characteristics. I can recommend several levels of power based on what you want to spend. All that do not require increased top RPM and will not harm your stock rotating assembly. You will notice a nice throaty sound that will be orgasmic!! But we won't get stupid and build a quality package.

I hope a couple guys on the site and weigh in on my experience on this subject. the change will surprise you. I have built many such combinations.

Rob

Rob, you crack me up.

 

[Toy68CS]

Hey Rob. I have a set of E7TE heads off my 94 GT.
Would it be worth putting them on my CS?

 

[stangfan]

Firstmustang, you should make up your own mind as to YOUR vision for this car. If you like them original, (which many of us do) then keep it that way to the degree that you can. If you want a hot rod, go for it. Just remember that the GT/CS is a fairly rare car.

In the end...it's YOUR car and you should do with it as you wish.

:grin:

 

[robert campbell]

Hey Rob. I have a set of E7TE heads off my 94 GT.
Would it be worth putting them on my CS?

If you have the J Code 4V heads they will probably hurt performance. The J code heads have small (53CC) combustion chambers that increase compression. The E7 heads do not flow much better than a stock 2V head. The power that the 94 GT gained is a result of roller technology and better exhaust manifolds. And there are some installation issues. IMO they would not be worth the effort. Here is a nice discussion on the E7 heads:

https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/e7te-heads.487857/

Rob

 

[Toy68CS]

Thanks Rob.
Great info as usual!