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1968 How to verify a GT/CS?

Jester

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
108
Location
Southern Sweden
Could somebody enlighten me in order for me to feel safer for my first '68 GT/CS buy? The seller sent me the Marti Report and it looks OK considering body color, interior etc but it has some minor deviations. So when looking at the car I will make sure the VIN matches the data plate. Are there more places I can look for data plates/VIN nrs on a 1968 GT/CS than the door? if so, where?

Is it possible to fake a dataplate? Or can I feel safe if I have the Marti report and same VIN is on the door data plate?

Originally I was looking for a J code, this is a C code. Is the C code considerable less lively? Would be nice to hear from any happy C-code owner.

This is the car by the way:
http://www.guloggratis.dk/personbil...stang-47-v8-289cui-gtcs-aut?imagepos=1#images

VIN: 8R01C130773. It's in the registry.

Thanks
 

x-codegtcs

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
Chances are if its in the registry than it is a real GT/CS. If you are concerned about it being rebodied, the VINs can be found on the door tag, front window tag, front fender aprons (although they tend to be covered by the fender) and top, back side of engine block if it is the original motor. To test for a "rebodied", I think, the most tell tale sign will be the side scoop holes. The factory was VERY sloppy at the way the hole was formed/drilled. I will post some pics I have from mine when I stripped it down. However, that would not be 100% as they could have replaced the qtr panels. Some of the other more knowledgeable guys might have some input for you too.
 

x-codegtcs

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
549
Location
Kaysville, UT
Here are some photos. You won't need to remove the scoop, but if you remove the inside, rear panel you should be able to see it from the back side. But like I said, there may be even better ways to tell without taking it apart.

Also, if it is in the registry, someone on the forum might know the car/owner and can vouch for them.

Good luck!
 

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Mustanger

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Messages
1,974
Location
So Cal
...Originally I was looking for a J code, this is a C code. Is the C code considerable less lively? Would be nice to hear from any happy C-code owner....

Here's a quick engine guide to give you a side-by-side comparison of the 289 C-code vs the 302 J-code:
http://www.geocities.com/mustangs68.geo/eng.html

If you're concerned about performance, then the easiest way to close the hp gap is to chuck the 2V carb and manifold and upgrade to a 4V carb and manifold :thumb: ...
 

whodat

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
668
I have a C-Code and like it very much. Numbers matching.
 

BigJim

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
414
FYI: Data plates can and are faked. If you're concerned about it post a close up picture of the plate I'm sure someone here can confirm its authenticity.
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
The Marti Report is necessary for verification.
The VIN plate mounted on the right side of the dash (viewable thru the windshield is the LEGAL identification.
The door data plate is NOT to be used for verification, and is stated so on the plate.
The VIN is also stamped on the left/top inner fender. (But sometimes covered over by the fender mounting flange.)
The fact that it is already listed in the Registry is a good sign of prior verification.

Neil Hoppe
 

somethingspecial

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,795
8R01C130773 is in the Registry, and I do have a copy of the Marti Report on it. If the dash VIN tag matches the Marti Report, than it is a good bet the car is a real GT/CS, and not a VIN switch. It does happen, but not as much as we might think. This is one of the earliest cars Registered, with a build date of Jan. 23rd. Might be a Debut car. The left Qtr. Panel CS script is mounted incorrectly, which seems to be a common problem on early cars. This seems to be a factory screw up.

One of the places most clones forget is the metal taillight block off plates located behind the taillights, but visable from inside the trunk, which look like bubbles inside the trunk. Usually a clone will just have holes cut, but nothing plugging them, since there are no repop plates. Hope this helps

For you Concours guys, note the screw covers.

See pics below.
 

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RU_SPCL2

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
50
One of the places most clones forget is the metal taillight block off plates located behind the taillights, but visable from inside the trunk, which look like bubbles inside the trunk. Usually a clone will just have holes cut, but nothing plugging them, since there are no repop plates. Hope this helps

For you Concours guys, note the screw covers.

See pics below.

Apologies for this tangent, but does anyone know where the screw covers can be sourced? Are they reproduced?
 

somethingspecial

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,795
Apologies for this tangent, but does anyone know where the screw covers can be sourced? Are they reproduced?

Try NPD, or with this description, try RNR Classics first. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/screw_protector_kit_tail_light_5_pieces-101707-0.html

These protectors went on the block off plate screws, the tail light panel screws, the side reflector studs inside the trunk, the engine side of the firewall where the fuse panel screws stick through, and the Voltage regulator screws on the forward side of the core support. These places are a sharp hazard to mechanics and/or owners, therefor the screw tips were covered.
 

RU_SPCL2

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
50
Try NPD, or with this description, try RNR Classics first. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/screw_protector_kit_tail_light_5_pieces-101707-0.html

These protectors went on the block off plate screws, the tail light panel screws, the side reflector studs inside the trunk, the engine side of the firewall where the fuse panel screws stick through, and the Voltage regulator screws on the forward side of the core support. These places are a sharp hazard to mechanics and/or owners, therefor the screw tips were covered.

Mike, thanks very much. I didn't realize all of the locations in which they were used. Great information!
 

68 special

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2004
Messages
525
Very nice car, nothing wrong with a C code. I was kinda wondering about the "debut" also. The quarter panel scripts look real low to me. Either way, it's a car worth owning.


Bret
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,322
There were 7 GT/CS cars on the stage at the debut of the GT/CS at the Century Plaza Hotel in February of 1968 according to the first GT/CS restoration book. The GT/CS script on the rear quarter was in flux until about 2 weeks of the debut of the GT/CS. At the 11 hour, 14 pairs of the script were made by AO Smith who made the Shelby unique badging. The cars in the debut were all early and all had recessed reflectors. The location of the GT/CS script in the pictures of the debut cars seems to be a “higher” location on the rear quarters than the later cars produced. It is assumed that this script was put on the first 7 to 14 cars at a rapid pace to get these cars to the public. But IMO there is evidence that as many as 200 cars (3rd GT/CS restoration guide by Paul Newitt) were already assembled as GT/CS cars that were hand picked and pulled off the assembly line waiting for the script to be produced and installed. Many anomalies may have occurred when this script was installed.

Your car is early and your car has recessed reflectors. It would be interesting to do further research on your cars sheet metal date codes and other dates on the steering box and such. The search continues to understand the early GT/CS cars and the differences from later produced GT/CS cars

Rob
 
OP
OP
J

Jester

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
108
Location
Southern Sweden
Thanks a lot for all the great info! Unfortunately the buy didn't go through as the seller didn't have any papers on the import, so it would be impossible to get the car registered in Sweden. It is still on US plates in Denmark.

Will however look at a Meadowlark yellow 68 GT/CS with VIN 8R01C171445 also in Denmark tomorrow. I didn't find it in the registry, but I have the Martireport. It was sold to Denmark in Fort Worth Texas in 2009, anyone know anything about the car?

http://www.blocket.se/goteborg/Ford_Mustang_GT_CS_47495956.htm?ca=23_10&w=3
 

somethingspecial

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,795
Thanks a lot for all the great info! Unfortunately the buy didn't go through as the seller didn't have any papers on the import, so it would be impossible to get the car registered in Sweden. It is still on US plates in Denmark.

Will however look at a Meadowlark yellow 68 GT/CS with VIN 8R01C171445 also in Denmark tomorrow. I didn't find it in the registry, but I have the Martireport. It was sold to Denmark in Fort Worth Texas in 2009, anyone know anything about the car?

http://www.blocket.se/goteborg/Ford_Mustang_GT_CS_47495956.htm?ca=23_10&w=3

Jester, Can you Email me a copy of the Marti Report so I can add it to the Registry. Thanks, Mike
 
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