1968 Ignition Circuit

[franklinair]

I'm installing a new Ignition Switch connector w/pigtail.
IIRC the Start position gives 12 V to the Coil+ for starting, and then in the Run position 6V+/- is then furnished to the Coil+ terminal. Correct?
The schematic shows the Pink resistance wire (16A) coming from the Ign switch to the 14401 connector under the dash, and then wire#16B from there to the Coil+ terminal.
Doesn't make sense. If the Pink resistance wire has already decreased the coil's voltage supply, how is the Red/Green wire #16B going to furnish 12V for starting? :undecided Or does the Coil in fact operate on the reduced voltage all the time?

Neil

PS
I'm wiring the car to original specs, but it will be operating a Pertronix Ignition which will require 12V to the Coil. But that's another issue easily solved.

 

[rvrtrash]

Neil, the resistance wire (16A) only supplies power when the key is in the run position. When the key is in the start position, the starter relay is energized and 12V is provided on wire 262 to the 14401/14290 connector, which puts 12V on wire 16B. When the key is released and the starter relay drops out, wire 262 is no longer supplying power and resistance wire 16A provides the power for the coil.

Steve

 

[Ruppstang]

Neil, the resistance wire (16A) only supplies power when the key is in the run position. When the key is in the start position, the starter relay is energized and 12V is provided on wire 262 to the 14401/14290 connector, which puts 12V on wire 16B. When the key is released and the starter relay drops out, wire 262 is no longer supplying power and resistance wire 16A provides the power for the coil.

Steve

+1 Marty

 

[robert campbell]

"Sparky" Steve to the rescue!!! +2!! I have experienced a couple ignition switches that died and provided nothing in the "run" position. The owner would start the car with the switch in the "start" position and it would start, but as soon as they let go and the switch reverted to the "run" position the car would die. Over and over! I quickly figured out that in the start position the "current" went through a different path to the coil!!! This current comes from the starter solenoid via the terminal closest to the wire heading to your starter. So when you are rolling over the motor the power comes from the "engaged" starter solenoid!! 12 volts to help it start on a cold morning and then back to 6 to 8 volts so you don't burn up the points during normal driving.

Rob

 

[Ruppstang]

I learned about the 12V start circuit the hard way when I was installing the battery in this 67 manual transmission. The keys were not in the ignition and it was parked in reverse, the points in the starting solenoid had welded closed. When I attached the battery terminal it cranked and started. You can see the results. I also learned to always put a manual in neutral and chock it when working on it. I was very lucky it was not in 1st it may have killed me.
I had a different car's solenoid fail when driving it and it would not shut off with the key. This is a important thing to know when working on these old cars.

 

[rvrtrash]

I remember seeing that picture before Marty. Hurts every time!

Electricians are taught to stand to the side of a panel when engaging a breaker or disconnect in case of arc flash. Not a bad idea to stand to the side of a car when starting in case it moves.

"Sparky"