1968 Ignition switch or starter solenoid

[somethingspecial]

The other day I started my driver GT/CS, pulled it up to the front of the house to wash it and when I tried to turn it off, it kept running. I turned the key on and off, to acc. and nothing. I finally dumped the clutch to kill the engine. I started it again and it turned off as normal. A couple hours later I tried to start it and the battery was dead. I changed the battery and it started great. I drove it to town and again it would not shut off. I again had to dump the clutch. Worked fine after that. Any ideas on if it is the ignition switch or the starter solenoid? Any help appreciated. Mike

 

[Midnight Special]

...Mike, my guess would be the switch. When the solenoid sticks - the starter keeps cranking, but the engine won't run unless the key is on. I've had both situations happen and had to cycle the key a time or two to shut it off. You might carry an extra coil around for awhile too as it may have been comprimised before the battery died...

P.S. Also check the wiring plug that goes to the switch. I replaced what I thought was a bad switch only to find the plug-in was bad.

 

[somethingspecial]

Thanks Tim, I suspect it is the ignition switch, but I don't know how a solenoid works and I just needed some direction. I have several other ignition switches. I'll try one of those. Thanks again. Mike

 

[Mosesatm]

Mike,

As long as you're buying parts you may want to pick up an extra condenser and throw it in the glove box. Having an extra one is cheap insurance when you are experiencing solenoid and/or ignition switch issues. All that fooling around with the starting system may send a full 14 volts to the condenser, and that isn't good for it.

Here's a thread where we discuss your issue. It was a faulty solenoid that time.
http://californiaspecial.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7394

 

[Ruppstang]

Mike I can almost promise you it will be the starter solenoid. At least try it first it is a lot easier than the ignition swith. I had that happen on the 68 fastback once, and you know what happened to the 67 coupe last November! I have had the full education on starter solenoids. Marty

 

[somethingspecial]

Marty, Arlie, and Tim. Thanks for all the input. I think I will replace both switch and solenoid. Just to eliminate both. Original 67 solenoid and I have gotten pretty good at swapping out ignition switches over the years. Even made a socket tool to fit the bezel nut. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it turns out. Mike

 

[390cs68rcode]

if it happens again tap the top of the solenoid with a hammer.

You can check the connections the solenoid screws make to the car. If they get loose or get dirt in there it can cause the solenoid to stick. It needs to be grounded well.

 

[somethingspecial]

Thanks Jason, I'll try that. I will be driving it this weekend so I'll take my 8# sledge hammer with me. Is that big enough? LOL Mike

 

[390cs68rcode]

Thanks Jason, I'll try that. I will be driving it this weekend so I'll take my 8# sledge hammer with me. Is that big enough? LOL Mike

juuuust about right.

 

[Midnight Special]

All good points! (assuming the points are still good)... Let us know what the outcome is Mike so we can refer to this thread (the next time) as well. And don't paint the top of those aftermarket solenoids black.... That is obviously a reinforced steel "hammer" pad!

 

[somethingspecial]

Well, Been driving the car on a daily basis now for a couple weeks and have not had a repeat of the problem. Even my daughter has taken it out a few times and still no problem. I figured it would fail on her for sure, always seems to be that way. LOL. Just a flook? Don't know what to fix now, or do I go on the "IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT" theory. Mike