1968 Lower Ball Joints

[Mosesatm]

I'm going to replace the lower ball joints on my green car. Is any brand obviously better than others? That's a fairly odd question because I can find only one brand of lower ball joints. There must be others, right?

Summit Racing sells Proforged.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-101-10439/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1968

Napa seems to sell only the entire lower control arm.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCP2605010?impressionRank=1

Moog doesn't even have just lower ball joints.

 

[Ruppstang]

Lower ball joints are not usually replaced. Most of the time the entire lower control arm is replaced un less it it a concours restoration.

 

[rvrtrash]

Marty's right. I've found that if the lower ball joint is bad, the eccentric bushing is probably needing replacement as well. The ball joint is riveted to the lower control arm, so quicker and easier to replace the whole thing.

Steve

 

[robert campbell]

+ plus one on both Steve and Marty. Will tell you that I got a crap lower control arm the failed quickly from a known Mustang supplier. Spend some time an look for a quality one that may still be available.

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Ok, who makes quality ones? I’ve always used Moog but they aren’t necessarily as high quality as they used to be.

 

[franklinair]

I still use MOOG.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

OK, one side is complete with a new lower control arm and strut rod bushings.
The other side has a bit of an attitude. The strut rod nut is not moving. The air compressor is dialed to full as is the impact gun, but nothing.

I don't have an acetylene torch but can go down to the hardware store and buy a little butane or propane one. Will that get the nut hot enough to remove it or would that most likely be a waste of time? I have a nut cutting set so I may be able to split it. As a last resort I can cut the rod but I really want to reuse it if possible.

Any ideas?

 

[Mosesatm]

Marty,
Do factory lower control arms have a Ford part number on them?

 

[franklinair]

I would soak the nut with penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, then apply heat (propane), then impact wrench (socket).
If that doesn't work, split the nut.

Neil

 

[CougarCJ]

Arlie, this should help identify front suspension components.

Marcus Anghel has a very good website for Concours Mustang stuff.

https://secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.167/xnm.126.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/65_to_73_suspension_guide_v2.4aopt.pdf

 

[Ruppstang]

Marty,
Do factory lower control arms have a Ford part number on them?

No part numbers on the upper or lower control arms.

I agree with Neil, soak it over night then heat then try the impact. If that does not work use a breaker bar with as much pressure you can give while smacking the end of the bar with a rubber mallet. It has worked for me.

 

[Mosesatm]

Too sore today so I'll give it another squirt of penetrating fluid and let it sit for another day. Pulling the strut rod out of the bushing was a job for the Hulk. I ended up unscrewing it; all 6,000 threads.

BTW, I've always wondered about the purpose of the vertical knob on the end of the strut rod. Is it a stop for something?

 

[CougarCJ]

BTW, I've always wondered about the purpose of the vertical knob on the end of the strut rod. Is it a stop for something?

Spindle....

 

[Mosesatm]

They are definitely original, as were the tie rods. I'm amazed at how many '68s still have their original suspensions.

 

[Ruppstang]

Did you get it apart???

 

[Mosesatm]

Had to split the nut so I was able to reuse the strut rod after a lot of rust removal.
The front is done so next is changing out the 9” locker for an open 8” or 9”. The locker is just too noisy for my taste.