Orange Pumpkins

[Mosesatm]

Every restored differential I've seen has been painted orange but I recently read that it is supposed to be red oxide.

Does anyone know the true correct color?

Thanks

 

[franklinair]

IIRC, MCA rules say "red primer". All restored 3rd members I've seen have been red oxide. Mike, Marty or Jeff would know for sure.

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Neil,
I think you're correct.
Ford using orange would be blasphemous.

 

[franklinair]

Also, I think it requires special locknuts & washers. Brassy/copper or cad in color. Its been a long time since I did this specific detailing.:embarass:

Neil

 

[Mosesatm]

Does this photo show correct colors for spring, spring supports, U-bolts, etc?

 

[somethingspecial]

The Leaf Springs, U bolts, and Spring plates and rear shackles should be natural. The springs should have a colored stripe/stripes. The shocks are red, I believe the shocks should be Semi-Gloss black with a red paint dob on them about the size of a 50 cent piece. I have seen Yellow Paint on the exposed threads of the U bolts on unrestored cars, and duplicated it on mine. Jeff Speegle told me he had not seen this before. Unknown which is correct. I will refer this to Jeff Speegle, but I have seen the floor board above the rear end on several cars sprayed Black with Sound Deadener. Jeff, can you confirm. Mine is black.

I also noticed there is no black sealer around the Seat Belt backing plates. Also I think the front leaf spring bolts are incorrect. They look to long. They should recess into the chassis from inboard and the hole filled with a rubber plug.

I hope I didn't overstep the request.

 

[Mosesatm]

Mike,
That helps a lot.
All three of my cars had the undercoating above the rear axle.
Nice catch on the front bolts. They are definitely wrong.

 

[Ruppstang]

I also noticed there is no black sealer around the Seat Belt backing plates. Also I think the front leaf spring bolts are incorrect. They look to long. They should recess into the chassis from inboard and the hole filled with a rubber plug.

I hope I didn't overstep the request.[/QUOTE]

The spring bolts do not look right because that is a 1967. You have to be careful copying photos of other's detail work because the three assembly plants did many things differently and there were many running changes. So you want to find a car that was built in the same plant at near the same time as yours. That car is best a unrestored because you do not know if the restorer just looked at photos of any car that looked close to theirs.
I understand that Kevin Marti is soon make the 68 build sheets available. That will be a great help on getting many details correct on one's own car.

Neil is correct in that Ford used red oxide on many cast parts right after casting. Then they machined the part so places on them were bare metal.
Red oxide primer soils very easly so I have been using Rust Olem redwood satin enamel because it is very close in color and much easier to clean.
I'll atach a picture or two of the HCS but remember it is a work in progress.
Hope this helps. Marty

 

[J_Speegle]

Does this photo show correct colors for spring, spring supports, U-bolts, etc?

I take it that all of these are taken of other peoples cars - as mentioned by Marty be very careful using other cars from other plants or years (even months off) as examples. I would add to this restored cars also since everyone is someone's interpretation of what they borrowed from someone else or thought their car should be.

As Mike mentioned the shocks should be semi=gloss black but the paint marking would differ depending on shat suspension was ordered on the car. =

The rear springs, spring clamps and plates are all the same tone, Originally these would look different since the type of metal and processes used to form them would have been different. Springs would have been a very dark gray from the heat treating and cooling process, the clamps would have been smooth, allot lighter in tone since they were smooth steel .

Dolly marks look very small in diameter to other San Jose cars I've seen.

ID marks/dots on the springs? That's not typical IMHO for San Jose by 67 - up

While we are at it the rear wheel wells look to be blacked out with sound deadener rather than correctly with body color . Would have been allot more overspray onto the floors and frame rail of body color and sound deadener

The third member was originally shot with some form of epoxy red oxide primer sealer that is typically fairly shinny - don't for get to get all the natural spots back to natural. Many owners miss the two smaller half circle ones in the bottom of the case as in your picture.

Your picture #2 from the first post shows those details


As for sound deadener above the rearend, I've rarely seen these. Maybe one or two out of two hundred cars but that year, that plant.

In some cases when checked it turned out not to be sound deadener but grease and grime collected there likely from a leaky pinion seal that threw oil on the floor in that area. pretty easy to tell when you scrap through the layer.

Another possibility (like the firewall to floor seam above the front of the trans) is that we have seen where workers applied a sloppy coat over a seam if the gap was really wide as a result of not getting everything lined up well before the panels were welded. This reduced the chance of water getting into the area and leaking or rusting.

We see a few show cars with this added - borrowed from 68 Shelby's that were published in the 80-90's in national magazine. Like having every seam sealed

 

[gt/csj4]

red oxide on the pumkin portion, natural on the u-bolt flange and the special brass crush washer and bolts that bolt up to the housing. Also there are several "markings and dabs" that are supposed to be on not only the 3rd memeber but the axel housing as well

 

[somethingspecial]

try these pics.

These were taken from my car, please excuse the rust on the natural metal areas, these have since been cleaned up. As Jeff stated, don't forget the small cresent areas on the bottom area (7 and 5 o'clock position) that needs to be natural. I missed it when these pics taken. For those unaware, the metal "hood" bolted over the pinion area came on the 9" diffs. and had the rubber bumper bolted to the top of it. The 8" diffs did not have this piece. Hope this helps.

 

[gt/csj4]

Isn't the 9" bump stop bracket to be painted steel metallic?

 

[somethingspecial]

Isn't the 9" bump stop bracket to be painted steel metallic?

Everyone I have seen has been bare metal, rusted and/or greasy. No evidence of paint.

 

[gt/csj4]

Good to know. Thank you