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1968 Pertronix111

green56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
516
well installed 2 coils and 1ignitor 111 and none of them work i guess i had my fill of that company any body have a nother good unit check voltage at the coil have 13 v took every thing out put the yellow top and points back in runs Would like to put a nother electronic back in Thanks Tom From WI Rob check carb have tag on unit it says 68 then a letter v or z
 

robert campbell

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Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Tom,
I need the number on the front corner near the front nut on the driver side that holds the carb to the intake. The complete number. Tags can be changed over the years from one carb to the next.

I have installed many Pertronix systems. Some people have installed them with stock Ford coils and have not had a problem. But many do have problems and they normally are complete system failure. I had that happen on my personal car.

I HIGHLY recommend the use of a Pertronix coil with their system in tandem with the ignition module. Pertronix has three systems. The original, the ignitor 2 and the ignitor 3. Each systems uses a different Pertronix coil.

What system did you purchase.

Rob
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
I use the PertronixII with their 45KV Coil. Never had a problem.
(If you Google Pertronix, they specify NOT using copper wire spark plug wires.)

Neil
 
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green56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
516
pertronix

Rob used the Pertronix 3 coil also their Moduel I called their service dept but he keeps saying that i have low Volts check coil 13 Volts Tom
 

p51

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Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Messages
1,025
Location
NorCal
Rob used the Pertronix 3 coil also their Moduel I called their service dept but he keeps saying that i have low Volts check coil 13 Volts Tom

Just a thought... are you using a resistor wire running to the Pertronix coil - the one that would normally go to the stock coil? If you are that is likely the problem. You need to make sure you use a non-resistor wire when you use the Pertronix coil and ignitor.

The reason I ask is that when there is *no load* on a wire (when the wire is either disconnected or the pertronix ignitor is "open") you will read the battery voltage regardless of whether it is a resistor or non-resistor wire. It is only when loaded - when current flows through the wire during the time the pertronix ignitor is "closed" - that you will see a lower voltage on a resistor wire than on a non-resistor wire.
 
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green56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
516
pertronix

no it is a new wire pertronix keeps saying i have low voltage but i have 13 v at the coil with car running but it still cuts out they say is to put every thing back in and turn the key on not start car and see what voltage i have iam just going to send every thing back and stay with the points and yellow top coil for now just had it for now Tom from WI
 

Mosesatm

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Messages
9,033
Tom,
13 volts is a little low. I'd expect to see 14 or 14.5. Have you tested your alternator?

Also, check to see that the Pertronix rotor is at the correct height. I don't know how the P3 works but on the other versions shims were supplied to raise the rotor if needed.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,321
Rob used the Pertronix 3 coil also their Moduel I called their service dept but he keeps saying that i have low Volts check coil 13 Volts Tom

The correct part number for the Pertronix coil for the Ignitor 1 module is 40011. If you have a different part number on your Petronix coil it may be for the Ignitor 2 or 3 and will not work.

As Arlie said the light chopper must be aligned properly. The Pertronix tech told me to make sure the top of the slip on light chopper is even with the top of the installed module. If it is not, then you can use a small o-ring to raise it up.

On one occasion I found that the rotor when above the properly aligned light chopper that the rotor was to high and was actually gouging on the distributor cap. You could see small marks above the cap contact points. I used a file clamped in a vice to file down the rotor bottom just a bit to get it all to work.

Rob
 

CougarCJ

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
2,189
For our vintage Ford's, you shouldn't use the 'distributor side of the coil wire' for your 12v source. Source a 'switched' 12 volt wire. Makes a huge difference.
 

franklinair

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
Here's where I picked up the 12V for the coil, eliminating the Pink resistance wire. I ran a Black wire coming from the square connector along with the engine harness, and connected to the coil. It's hot with the Ign Sw in the Start & Run position.
(Ignore the single bullet connector you see- that's the A/C clutch power.)

Neil
 

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green56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
516
pertronix

I picked up the 12v right from the fire wall going to the switch from their right to the coil new wire
 
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