Priming for paint - Correct procedure if it's going to be a while

[admin]

What's the best way to handle bodywork and primer on a long term project? With 2 little ones my project timelines keep getting longer and l..o..n..g..e..r. :grin:

So if a full paint job is realistically a year or two away, but I want to start doing bodywork now, what's the best way to protect against the weather? I've always been taught that primer and body filler absorb water, so you shouldn't leave them exposed for long periods of time. But paint technology has changed and I'm not sure if that's still the case.

Thanks!

 

[PFSlim]

Jon

Good question. Is you project car going to be stored outside?

Here is what we did - in steps - to keep our car in good shape. Keep in mind that we did not stop, once we started and the car was kept in our shop the entire time.

Step 1 - media blasted the car back to metal

Step 2 - Covered the exterior of the blue surfaces of the car with blue primer.

Step 3 - Placed a coat of Por15 on engine bay and underside of car to prevent rusting. This seemed like an intelligent move until we had to grind down the Por15 to do any welding. Por15 is a great sealant and will prevent rusting for the life of your car, just not fun to grind through to get back to untreated metal.

Step 4 - We then started all of our body work. We sanded down the required spots on the blue primer, applied any body filler needed, cut and welded new panels, etc.

Step 5 - Once we had all the body work done, we sprayed a sandable primer called "All you will ever need". We applied 3 coats sanding down to metal after each coat. We had so many small pits and rough spots that we needed to do this to make the body straight.

Step 6 - We applied a primer coat - grey - that was baked by the sun for 10 days in 100 degree heat.

Step 7 - Base blue coat and clear coats.

I don't know if this helps you or not.

Paul

 

[PFSlim]

Jon

I can also offer up the number to our painter (which is here in Kansas City) that you can call and ask more detailed questions. Let me know and I can PM you his information.

Paul

 

[TheBlkPearl]

Regular primers do absorb water but there are primer sealers that are available that should work for you. I like R-M products but that is just a personal choice.

 

[rvrtrash]

I use an epoxy primer/sealer. My Fairlane convertible has been in primer for about 5 years now, stored indoors, and no new rust has shown up. It's fairly easy to sand also. When you get ready to paint, the shop just needs to scuff the surface, shoot a coat of new primer and paint.
Steve

 

[Mosesatm]

The guy who is restoring the GT/CS for Auto Restorers magazine swears it's best to spray a particular PPG epoxy primer over the bare metal and then place the filler (bondo) over the primer, instead of the other way around.

 

[rvrtrash]

That's what my paint guy says also. Apparently it's to keep the bondo from putting moisture on the bare metal as it dries so no rust forms under the bondo and pops it off at a later date.

Steve

 

[admin]

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately the HCS is relegated to the outside parking space, so it won't be out of the weather. I have a 3 car garage that amazingly actually has 3 cars parked in it, but at the moment they all take precedence over the HCS. (I know it's blasphemy!:icon_evil )

All the paint has come off the whole top of the car and a pretty good coat of surface rust has developed. I just want to get the rust off and something on there to keep it off while the rest of the car waits for a full restoration.

 

[rvrtrash]

I'd bead blast it, put the epoxy primer on and hope for the best.
You at least aren't in a high moisture or salt air environment.
Steve