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Productions date for Engine VS Car

P

PNewitt

Guest
Franklinair:
"Now on the other hand - if I were suspicious that the engine S/N had been altered to match the VIN (which is do-able by the way) THEN I might want to check the casting date".

Hmmm...you have a point there. Ya gotta wonder....

gee...what size those starter bolts are? 1/2" or 5/8"?

(just kidding, Neil--see you out here ASAP!)

Paul N.
 

robert campbell

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,322
So back to the orginal question in the thread. If you don't have an engine and you want to get as close to original as possible....... Try to find a date code close to the build date. And if you want to fake on the serial number (Yes Neil I do have the Ford "script" "f", but have never used it) also choose a close date.

but if you are just going to car shows and want an original look, the only way they would know is to remove your starter. Not likely, and you can step on them if they try!! the only number on an assembled small block Ford that is close to easy to read is the casting number on the intake. It in itself is not date specific but year specific. And with the stock air cleaner on it is hard/impossible to read.

Rob
 

franklinair

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Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
And year dated intakes are not that tough to find.

Neil
 
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@Holmes

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Dec 22, 2006
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238
Location
McAllen, Texas
Well guys you don't have to pull the starter. It is in two places. The easyest place to look (if you don't have an AC or pump in the way) is where the timing cover bolts to the block. On the top driver side there is a flat area about an inch long where the date code is stamped. Clean off the paint and you will see it. Another little known block casting fact for ya. So lets get those dates and clean up some of these facts.
Lassiter
 
OP
OP
speedy02

speedy02

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Mar 19, 2003
Messages
782
Well seeing my car doesn't have a motor here is what my idea is. It is a 289 car but I thought about finding a 302 block close to the date of the car and building a 4V 289 out of a 302 block maybe even finding a 8v intake manifold. I want more power than the 289 offers but yet at the same time I want to give it a OEM look with maybe a dress up kit. I am open for any ideas at this time. I haven't started working on the car but have a couple of shows coming up that will have parts there so need ideas in case I find something with 8B20 or something close date code.
 

robert campbell

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Apr 10, 2007
Messages
4,322
More power!!! Now we're talkin!!! So 8V dual quad? Ya babeee!! Now you will want heads. Either Aluminum, iron, or ported stock iron. Roller cam? Solid tappit? Solid Roller?? Will need a minimum of shorty's or long tube headers. RPM range? More RPM=more dollars. Yes, you can run heavy compression on today's gas. You just need to set it up right.

I will put my mind to work and give you some thoughts!! I love spending other peoples money!!

Rob
 

franklinair

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Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
4,744
OK, Here's my suggestions:
1.) Find a stock 302 engine (date code really doesn't matter, cause no one's ever going to see it anyway)(bear in mind the only basic difference between a 289 & 302 is the crankshaft - longer stroke)
2.) Install an Edelbrock 4V intake & carb. (Grind off the Edelbrock raised letters prior to painting the intake the correct Ford Blue.)
3.) Stock or MILD cam - your choice.
4.) Pertronics solid state ignition in the distributor.
5.) Install the engine dress up kit, with a 289 emblem on the air cleaner.
6.) VOILA: You now have a stock appearing engine installation that will perform beyond your needs, and you'll be the only one that knows the difference between #'s matching or not.
7.) Optional: Hi-Po exhaust manifolds (NOT HEADERS) & dual exhaust. (This will be obvious to the educated observer, and 289's didn't come with dual exhaust.) If you opt for dual exhaust, for Heaven's sake, also install the GT rear valance. Again, not factory correct but looks soooo much better. Also, the repro valances don't fit worth a damn, so be prepared to spend some $$$ with a body shop to make it fit decently.
8.) Optional: A .325 gear ratio for the rear end. Your car probably has a .273 ratio. A .325 will scorch the rear tires if you wish that kind of performance, but will diminsh fuel economy.
As far as the engine: KISS= Keep It Simple Stock. Don't waste a ton of money unless you plan on doing some speed competition with your car. Engine modifications seldom pay back the investment.

My 2 cents worth.

Neil Hoppe

P.S. DON"T PAY ANY ATTENTION TO ROB or JOE.
THEY ARE BAD BOYS!!
 
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joedls

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Mar 12, 2005
Messages
1,980
Location
Lake Forest, CA
I tend to lean more towards the Rob camp. If you MUST keep it stock appearing (God only knows why) get a 347 stroker kit for your 302 block, a good aluminum intake, aluminum heads, paint them Ford blue and dress it up like a stock 289. Me, I'd get a blower.........:grin:
 
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