1966-67 HCS radiator recommendations

[66hcs-conv]

Hi all,

I probably need to replace the radiator in the '66. I have used regular tap water in it and the car sits all winter, so now there are deposits in the radiator tubes. I had a shop supposedly rod it out, but the little tubes still look partially blocked.

Anyhow, who has a good 3 row or even a 4 row radiator these days? Mustang Monthly had an ad for All Classic Parts (ACP) radiators. Anybody heard anything about the ACP radiators?

I am not a big fan of the aluminium radiators. No pun intended.

Thanks for any advise you can offer. Dave

 

[whodat]

I bought a 3 core radiator and I had to get the overflow moved. The radiator shop informed me that I had a Made in China radiator. He could've re-cored mine. Lesson learned. If it's possible see if yours can be re-cored. If your tank is big enough they could add a row to it. And put a 3 core. If not then you need a bigger radiator.

 

[dalorzo_f]

The NPD repros have worked fine for me...

 

[green56]

Radiator

I have one for sale i think it is a high Eff i put it on my 68 because i was havein g a overheating problem but it was not the radiator it was the Distribator so i have one for sale if you are interested E mail me blunite56@att.net

 

[66hcs-conv]

I have one for sale i think it is a high Eff i put it on my 68 because i was havein g a overheating problem but it was not the radiator it was the Distribator so i have one for sale if you are interested E mail me blunite56@att.net

I've looked at different websites and parts houses and I don't think the '68 will fit in a '66. The sources I checked on show different part numbers for the '66 vs. '68 radiators.

Thanks, Dave

 

[stangfan]

I obtained a FoMoCo radiator and had it rebuilt for my 68 GT/CS. The shop used larger tubes to give me 25% more cooling. It cost more than a new one, but it looks correct and really cools well. :grin:

 

[66hcs-conv]

I pulled the radiator, and gonna take it to shop in Denver and get it looked at.

When I drained the radiator, I only got 6-7 quarts of coolant out. I have disconnected the upper and lower rad hoses, and the heater hose at the connection on the intake, just behind the t-stat. The heater controls are in the down position, set for full heat

The shop manual I have says the system holds 15 Qts. How can the block still be holding the remaining 7-8 qts.?

I would appreciate your thoughts please - thanks. Dave

 

[robert campbell]

The block does not drain when you drain the radiator. It retains nearly half the water for the system. There is a block drain behind the alternator down near the oil pan surface of the block. About 2 or so inches up. Normally a square head plug. There is one on the driver side at the back of the oil pan surface at the same height.

If you remove these you can drain the block. If they have never been touched they can be a bear to remove. There is a "star" shaped socket that will fit over the square head. But even with these they can not move and you strip the head off the plug.

Unless you feel your block is extremely dirty, I would leave them alone. I would fill your car up with clean water ONLY and run it with the new radiator. Drain the radiator and repeat a couple times. This will remove most of the "gunk". Then install one gallon of anti freeze and some rust inhibitor.

Remember when you fill the radiator to leave the heater hose off the intake manifold fitting. Wait until some to the clear water runs out and then put it on. Fill the radiator to normal. This will ensure you do not have a large air pocket in the heads.

Rob

 

[66hcs-conv]

Hey Rob,

Thanks for the reply.

I cannot get the block drain plugs loose. I tried when I had the engine rebuilt last summer. The car sits all winter, without starting it. That combined with using tap water has goobered up the present radiator.

My goal here is to get all the old coolant/tap water out of everything, and refill with distilled water & antifreeze.

So here's da plan:
I am going to run plain water thru the block, using the hose connection just behind the t-stat on the intake manifold, with a short piece of hose temporarily attached. I want to get the coolant flushed out as good as I can, then use distilled water for a final flush. So then with approximately 7-8 Qts. of distilled water in the engine, and still having the heater hose disconnected, I can fill the radiator & block with 6-7 qts of straight antifreeze, and should be at a 50-50 mix of coolant.

Lemme know what you think - thanks, Dave

 

[franklinair]

I took my CS's radiator to the shop today. Its an original part. Pretty well gummed up. I told them if there's any question, just re-core it. I think that's a better plan than buying an offshore repo.

Neil

 

[66hcs-conv]

I took my CS's radiator to the shop today. Its an original part. Pretty well gummed up. I told them if there's any question, just re-core it. I think that's a better plan than buying an offshore repo.

Neil

Yep, that's what I am going to do - get the radiator re-cored with a high efficiency core, and use the distilled water.

 

[robert campbell]

Hey Rob,

Thanks for the reply.

I cannot get the block drain plugs loose. I tried when I had the engine rebuilt last summer. The car sits all winter, without starting it. That combined with using tap water has goobered up the present radiator.

My goal here is to get all the old coolant/tap water out of everything, and refill with distilled water & antifreeze.

So here's da plan:
I am going to run plain water thru the block, using the hose connection just behind the t-stat on the intake manifold, with a short piece of hose temporarily attached. I want to get the coolant flushed out as good as I can, then use distilled water for a final flush. So then with approximately 7-8 Qts. of distilled water in the engine, and still having the heater hose disconnected, I can fill the radiator & block with 6-7 qts of straight antifreeze, and should be at a 50-50 mix of coolant.

Lemme know what you think - thanks, Dave

Good plan. You can also flush out the heater core with the hose, but carefully (slowly) open the faucet as you have 50 pound of pressure at most homes. If you have a plug in it, it can rupture it. You can go both ways by taking the water pump hose off. I do this to my cars every other year.

Rob

 

[dalorzo_f]

Way back when I used the el-cheapo Prestone backflush kits, not sure if they are even around anymore. Place the tee in the heater hose and attach a garden hose. You can insert a short section of rad hose to add the backflush tee without cutting the hose in the car and leaving the highly attractive an original part in plain view if you like! :wink: Remove the tee and short piece when done.

Just fill the car and run with the tstat open and rad cap off. Once flow gets going a slow feed thru the hose to displace the existing water. Run until clear. Does a pretty good job.

As you just have tap water (and rust!) no significant environmental issues of spilling anti-freeze (if you do have anti freeze a large flat cardboard box under the front of the car lined with a sheet of plastic works well to catch all the nasties... and if you have pets keep them away from the fluid, some like it and it is not really very good for them to drink!)

 

[66hcs-conv]

I have been pouring in one gallon at a time in the upper heater hose connection, and catching it in a pan, then pouring in to another old milk jug. I then take the old coolant & recycle it.

We live close to a couple of lakes and 10 minutes away from a state park & lake. We have lots of wild life (both 4 legged & 2 legged ) around, and I don't want to poison or make them sick.

Have fun, Dave