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1968 Remove and paint doors

Jester

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
108
Location
Southern Sweden
I am going to remove the doors in order to paint the inside. Have never done this before and need a few pointers.

1: I assume best way is to unbolt the doors where the hinges bolts to the body of the car? Or can I get the pin out of the hinges? What is the easiest way?

2: the inside of the doors have a few spots of rust where the surface "texture" has been damaged. In other areas excessive paint has made the fine lines in the structure invisible. The paintshop suggested bead blasting, but it sounds like a bad idea to me as what is left of the texture will be gone forever. Suggestions?

3:is anyone sitting on photos or spec on the original divider line between interior and body paint?

4: Shall I expect alignment issues when I rebolt the doors?

Thank you!
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,080
I leave the hinge on the body. Be sure to mark the hinge position on the door with tape or a marker, that will eliminate a lot of the adjustment latter. Do not blast or sand the interior, you will loose the texture. Paint stripper and lacquer thinner work best with a scotch bright pad or course steel wool to scrub with. Be sure to mask any exterior paint to protect it. Wear gloves and eye protection! Not knowing how bad the rust is I can hope it is only surface rust that to can remove with navel jell or Evapo rust. Any welding repairs will be seen so I hope the rust is not too bad.
When you paint use only light coats that are just enough to cover. If you use too heavy of a coat it will be too glossy and fill the grain.

The paint line should be about 1 inch inside the weather stripping at the bottom of the door. You can find pictures of this at concoursmustang.com do a search for door interior paint under 67-68.

With the doors off I would take the opportunity to rebuild the hinge pins and bushings. I do it on the car.

Best of luck with your project.
Marty
 

rvrtrash

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
3,665
I agree with everything Marty said, however, I have blasted the doors using glass beads instead of the aluminum oxide. It's softer and worked well for me, although I admit I was being pretty careful not to linger too long in any one spot.

Steve
 
OP
OP
J

Jester

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
108
Location
Southern Sweden
OK, Doors are back from paint and look great. Thanks for the pointers. Now next question. Door Sill Plates. Mine are not original and in very bad condition. I am looking for replacements but again, its a jungle. Originally were they in aluminum or Stainless steel? The decal should its say only "Ford" in blue or "Product of Ford" or something else? Thanks.
 

Ruppstang

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
3,080
The sill plates were aluminum. Buy the made in Ford tooling ones they are worth it.
The plate should just say Ford the others are 67.
 
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