1968 Road Warrior 2

[Mosesatm]

Christmas in June!!
Anyone need a set of chrome SSW with Firehawks on them?

 

[stangfan]

Christmas in June!!
Anyone need a set of chrome SSW with Firehawks on them?

Nice! :grin:

 

[Mosesatm]

I'm thinking of installing a black vinyl top. What do you think?

 

[stangfan]

I'm thinking of installing a black vinyl top. What do you think?

I'd leave it alone. The red paint is very nicely offset by the black side-stripe. I don't feel that adding a black top would improve what already looks really good.

 

[Ruppstang]

I'm thinking of installing a black vinyl top. What do you think?

I think it would look great but it looks great with out it too.

I have had a black top be for and they are a lot more work to keep looking nice that the paint.
Marty

 

[franklinair]

I like the black vinyl top. I added it to my 1st GT/CS.
I understand the factory originals had a metal strip pop riveted into the gutter.

Neil

 

[p51]

I'd vote for a black vinyl top as well. I've always liked that look. Also reminds me of the "Little Red" Shelby... have you thought of maybe adding a hood scoop as well?

 

[Ricky Knapik]

Yes Neil, mine has the metal strip on the edge. My understanding is it's not reproduced and very hard to find.

 

[CougarCJ]

Yes Neil, mine has the metal strip on the edge. My understanding is it's not reproduced and very hard to find.

Yes, and equally hard to install.

 

[robert campbell]

My GNS had the metal gutter strip and was a factory vinyl top car. I just installed a vinyl top on a 1968 coupe last year that was not a factory vinyl top car. The factory trim on the rear quarter "C" pillar is a bugger. Make sure you oblong the holes a bit to give it a chance of fitting to the rear window trim. The one I did turned out OK, but once the headliner is in you don't want to dig it off to adjust the trim.

This car now has style steel wheels and looks great! I like the black out hood look also!

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

I decided to fix the ATF leaks in the car so yesterday I replaced the rear transmission seal, and today is the power steering, and I'm already stuck.
Is it easiest to remove the entire steering rack, including tie rods, or just remove the leaking parts?
Shown is the rack from one of my previous cars that shows the connection I cannot separate. Any thoughts? I don't want to use a pickle fork. Should I just remove the entire rack and use a vice?

 

[franklinair]

Soak the joint with penetrating oil, let it sit for a while, and use a pickle fork.

Neil

 

[robert campbell]

Arlie,
Use a pickle fork to put a small load on separating it. Just enough to not damage the rubber boot. I have a short piece of rail road track to lay one side of the tapered joint on. It is best with a helper to keep it on a solid piece of iron of some kind. Strike it with a large (3 pound) hammer on the other side and they pop right out. You do need to strike it hard!

Rob

 

[Mosesatm]

Rob,
I think you're right about the need for a backing block. There is just too much flex in the steering system. The joint has been soaking for a few days so now it's time to go to the hardware store for a double jack head, unless I can find something heavier.

 

[Ruppstang]

I often use a gear puller that I have very tight, then hit with a sharp blow with a hammer. Seems to work well for me.

 

[CougarCJ]

I often use a gear puller that I have very tight, then hit with a sharp blow with a hammer. Seems to work well for me.

I agree, otherwise you risk damaging the socket where the ball stud resides.