1968 Taking apart my car, need some Help please!

[davidathans]

Hey everyone, i'm having a lot of fun taking my car apart! check out the pictures!

A few questions:

1) what is the best way to get the steering wheel off? i have the big nut off, but the steering wheel won't budge!

2) The main electrical loom passing through the firewall is very hard to pull through! there is a big rubber piece right where it goes through the firewall and i cant figure out how to get it off so i can pull the electrical loom out. Anyone know the secret?

3) I found some hardware was missing and i probably won't remember what goes where when i put the car back together. Does anyone know of a kit that comes with all the hardware needed to put the front of the car back together? And all the rubber plugs? And a diagram that tells you what goes where?

4) What paint would you recommend I use to re-paint the engine compartment? I'm thinking black with clear coat. What have you used? Did it work well?

5) Any tips for draining the brake fluid & taking off the master cylinder and vacuum booster?

Thank you so much!

David Athans

 

[John McGilvary]

Low gloss black on the engine comp.

 

[John McGilvary]

The elect. loom threw the fire wall should have a split in the rubber, after you get it out.

 

[dalorzo_f]

1) what is the best way to get the steering wheel off? i have the big nut off, but the steering wheel won't budge!

Buy a steering wheel puller. Pretty cheap and the right tool really helps for this job. Alternatively, some penetrating oil, time and one person pulling on the wheel and one tapping it with a hammer... it may come flying off so be careful if you take the cheap route.

2) The main electrical loom passing through the firewall is very hard to pull through! there is a big rubber piece right where it goes through the firewall and i cant figure out how to get it off so i can pull the electrical loom out. Anyone know the secret?

The gromment just presses through. I've used a big shorty flat screwdriver to gently pry loose, or silicone spray. Work a bit at a time and once its started it should pop out pretty easy.

3) I found some hardware was missing and i probably won't remember what goes where when i put the car back together. Does anyone know of a kit that comes with all the hardware needed to put the front of the car back together? And all the rubber plugs? And a diagram that tells you what goes where?

AMK kits. All nuts/bolts/etc in little bags. Factory Assembly Manual's for drawings of what goes where. Both invaluable resources for anyone restoring a Mustang.

4) What paint would you recommend I use to re-paint the engine compartment? I'm thinking black with clear coat. What have you used? Did it work well?

Personally, I would not clear coat, go semi-gloss or satin black. Gloss just looks wrong in an engine bay to me...

5) Any tips for draining the brake fluid & taking off the master cylinder and vacuum booster?

A few choices.

1. Pop the cap on the mc, get some hose that fits over the bleeders and 4 jars. Open the bleeders, put on the hose, stick 'em in the jars, and wait a day..

2. Loosen the MC from the firewall or booster, pull the lines off it and remove. Pop the top on a bech and dump it. Then bleed lines as above.

3. As with 1 except buy a hand vaccum pump. Pump out the fluid.

If its a 390 pull the MC first, then the booster. If its a small block (not famailr with them) you can probably pull them as a unit.

HTH

 

[PFSlim]

You can also pull the entire steering assy - wheel and column out by taking bolts out at the floorboard. The entire column comes out and makes it easier to work on outside of the car.

One idea for paint in the engine bay is POR-15 (black) with a satin over coat. The POR-15 is very strong - will never rust. It is easy (not really cheap) to installed. The engine bays were normally a satin finish and not a high gloss.

Paul

 

[davidathans]

thank you John and HTH and Paul!

 

[PFSlim]

David

Why are you pulling your car apart?

Paul

 

[admin]

Buy a steering wheel puller. Pretty cheap and the right tool really helps for this job. Alternatively, some penetrating oil, time and one person pulling on the wheel and one tapping it with a hammer... it may come flying off so be careful if you take the cheap route.

Definitely get the steering wheel puller.

But, some aftermarket steering wheels don't have the threaded holes to allow a puller to work. Lecarra for example. Those you have to just wiggle, yank and swear a lot. One trick if you go that route is to leave the center nut on by just a couple of threads. That way when the wheel finally pops lose the nut stops it from giving you a bloody nose. :wink:

 

[calspcl]

Take lots of pictures. Buy a box of sandwich size zip lock bags and write on the bag with a permanant marker what bolts are in them.

 

[davidathans]

David

Why are you pulling your car apart?

Paul

I want to paint the engine compartment before i put the new engine in. As you can see from the pictures, it really needs it.

 

[davidathans]

Definitely get the steering wheel puller.

But, some aftermarket steering wheels don't have the threaded holes to allow a puller to work. Lecarra for example. Those you have to just wiggle, yank and swear a lot. One trick if you go that route is to leave the center nut on by just a couple of threads. That way when the wheel finally pops lose the nut stops it from giving you a bloody nose. :wink:

I have a Lecarra wheel

 

[dalorzo_f]

I would avoid the POR-15 for the engine bay. Seen it flake off in big chunks and removing it form areas its stuck to is hard, an odd dichotomy.

I've used it on brake drums, exhaust and a few other places, but would stick to more traditional paints for the entire engine bay. Just one opinon.

2c worth

(P.S. HTH = Hope this Helps! Not my intials!! - it's Richard) ;-)

 

[di81977]

I want to paint the engine compartment before i put the new engine in. As you can see from the pictures, it really needs it.

Have it media blasted if you can before painting, but if you have rust, it will require repair.

 

[Mosesatm]

For engine compartment paint I like SEM Low Gloss Black Trim paint. It looks good and is easy to match and blend later.

 

[davidathans]

Thanks guys! Taking off the vacuum booster is where i'm at now, it is attached to the brake pedal, which is connected to the pivot which i'm having trouble getting my 9/16 wrench on. I'm not even sure that will allow me to take it off! This work is hard! my back hurts! I got the master cylinder off alright and i took out the steering column today.

The electrical loom is nearly impossible to pull through. I'm supposed to pull the wires and connectors through and then take out the rubber grommet!? i dont think the connectors will pass through my attempts at pulling it through have not worked. Which direction and what order am i supposed to follow to get that electrical loom out.

Thanks again

 

[davidathans]

Have it media blasted if you can before painting, but if you have rust, it will require repair.

I wish i could media blast it, i'm just going to use a degreaser and then sand it down

 

[davidathans]

I would avoid the POR-15 for the engine bay. Seen it flake off in big chunks and removing it form areas its stuck to is hard, an odd dichotomy.

I've used it on brake drums, exhaust and a few other places, but would stick to more traditional paints for the entire engine bay. Just one opinon.

2c worth

(P.S. HTH = Hope this Helps! Not my intials!! - it's Richard) ;-)

whoops....haha thanks Richard!

 

[franklinair]

Why are you pulling the harness in the first place? Damaged? Burned?

Neil

 

[di81977]

I wish i could media blast it, i'm just going to use a degreaser and then sand it down

It was pretty inexpensive. I think I paid a couple hundred bucks at most. I also replaced my under dash and engine compartment wiring harnesses. Don't remember it being difficult. Also, don't remember which direction I went.

 

[franklinair]

Unless there's a problem with the wiring harness, why not leave well enough alone?

Neil