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OK - next question...I have 4 different drive shafts (one from a 390 cougar) and I am trying to find the correct drive shaft for a J-code with a c4. I have one that is tube-in-tube with the rubber "spacers" and one that is a "single" tube with the ends welded on the same tube - both are the...

Richard - I would bet the coating was too thick...small job shops don't control the coating thickness very well as the profit per part doesn't warrant the proper technique that a mass production environment would require for cost savings. A really good PC job will be almost as thin as paint. A...

Thanks guys!!! I just got my short block and milled heads back today and want to start fiddling!

I don't want to rely on just photos on the internet, but cannot find a credible source for the correct color/finish for a harmonic balancer for 68 jcode. Thanks in advance!

I would have guessed an R-code GT with what looks like a 428CJ scoop on the middle of the hood or a 67 Shelby with the wider, round outboard driving lights. The hood just doesn't look consistent to be a 68 Shelby hood and wasn't the fog light placement was the same for the 68 Shelby and...

I have PC parts before and never had a chipping issue...the stuff just does not come off if done right...with that said, it just does not come off!!! LOL I am sure you know that! I would PC as many small brackets as you can - especially brake backing plates etc as brake cleaner will not...

Mike - Richard, thanks for the suggestions!!!!

ugh- that is what I was afraid of...I didn't want to introduce metal shavings into the ball joint. Any suggestions to minimize this issue?

at least he is getting a fatboy front end out of the deal....

I would consider switching to discs if you are going to drive it a lot as they do perform better. For a C code 289-2v I would do as you mentioned...a real nice driver. Not sure if concours is justified - unless you really want to. I am doing the same on my j-code right now - close, but not...

Richard, you are right. If I go down half an inch there is a line them materializes out of nowhere. So as you mentioned earlier it 977 goes to the chassis differential switch - whatever that is - and then up to the instrument cluster to the "Dual Brake Warning" light - so the "Whatever" must...

Numbers matching is very cool! Good luck on the rebuild!

Here is a photo of a May 10 1967 cast C8OE block...I have seen a couple with May 67 cast dates.

as early as May 1967, Ford began casting the C8OE block and using them to build 289's. This is pretty common. I would be surprised if any "289" blocks were even used in the 68 production.

Rob's advice is spot on...and yes he is good at spending other people's money, but you won't regret it!

Welcome! Love to see pics when you get them!

Here are the wiring diagram images...hope this helps.

My AMP repro wire harness also has the purple wire. I looked through my Jim Osborne wiring diagram and it shows the violet wire (977) and it connects to a red wire (63) to the wiper switch and then to the motor...maybe I am reading it wrong. I will get a photo of the diagram and highlight the...

OK - I am trying to finish up my front suspension and cannot get the grease fitting to screw into the Moog lower control arm...anyone else experience this problem? Is there a solution?

Looking for the wire feed that connects from under the dash to the console wire harness...This is the two plug (one male, one female) with a ground terminal and male terminal at the far (underdash) end. Thanks!