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8R01 8 = '68 R = San Jose 01 = Hardtop ... :wink:

Here in Australia I'm at $4600 to machine the block, sleeve 3 cylinders and bore/hone all to 0.030, line hone, deck, fit cam bearings, linish crank, balance, replace all intake valves and guides, regrind exh valves, reassemble heads, and supply cam, pistons, rings, main bearings, oil pump and...

No evidence of sealant on mine when disassembled. No telling the past though...

Does appear to be a square bore 4300....

As the issue was the "switch" I assume an active "on-off" operation was the question. As noted the foot operates the pump, and activates the wipers for a few swipes. But to turn the on in the rain, the dash switch is used...

You pick up a bit of extra clearance with the Shelby style. Especially if you do not add the plenum.

Doing a full rebuild of the C code. Need new pistons and am coming to the US so will get a set there (right now you can't find a set of 0.030 over for a 289 anywhere in Australia, some shipping strike/issue) Going to be a very stock build. Crane 260-H-2 cam, very close to OEM spec, original...

Picture of a OEM about halfway thru this post showing one. Black rectangular item above the speedometer and voltage regulator... http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=12082.0

After market version, don't have a pic of an OEM handy.... similar but different.. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/switch_assy_windshield_wiper_and_washer-150990-1.html

Electrical. Two speed, left to right action, with rectangular knob.

Recent web item I saw noted "old" pickups have doubled in price in the last 3 years. All late 60s/early 70s muscle is up in the same period. An analogy in the classic car world, "post war" (WWI) cars are appreciating at similar rates, collectors have most of the top tier cars. So look to...

Looks like I'm going to be picking up some parts as I will be in the US in a few weeks. Shop was backed up and wanted some time to get to it, and with the trip I can save some $ buying and carrying back parts as "luggage". Lucky timing. Will be looking for a cam kit, cam, springs, lifters...

Mine was similar to yours and my shop metal-guru straightened it out...

Glad to hear only pride, and the rad support and grille, damaged... could have been far worse. Had a similar incident a few years ago. 390/C6 almost out and the lifting eye (original factory style) snapped. As with you the rad support, but noting else, damaged. 60 seconds later the engine...

Went for a Crane H-260-2, basically stock spec. New cam, bearings, lifter, springs, pistons, intake valves and guides (old ones were worn), 3 sleeves. Everything inspected and all machining and balancing done. $4600.... ouch... then I get to assemble. Rebuilt the C4, and now the only thing...

One note if anyone goes this route. Old tapes generally fail at the splice. Its a good idea to get the deck cleaned or better yet fully serviced (old rubber rollers in some turn to goo) and to resplice the tapes before playing as 40+ year old ones often fail at the seam on first play and...

NP, too easy.... 5 mins... out to the shed and snap a few photos and post 'em... we are here to help each other!:smile:

The 8 track shown is a '72, but dimensionally/mounting the same as a '68. When looking for one I found it hard to find a date correct unit and compromised on the '72 in good shape...

OEM 8 track will fit right in the bezel.