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The are cutouts on the rear board, but as the panel takes both deluxe and standard armrests the holes are not punched in the vinyl...

I've used NPD's on all 4 cars. Not sure who's they are, but to me they compare pretty well to the fit, finish and materials of OEM. As for the clips, I pre-"clip" them (flex 'em a few times) to ensure the paint/coating isn't sticking the sides together, ensure they are straight and square, and...

Thanks very much!

Have seen both the screw style and the crimped in place type. Which style is considered correct for the GTCS? (289, C code, Late April build date) FAM calls out 97201 (no reference I can find) and 97237 (screwed banded clamp, no slot). Many refs (web search) show a slotted band, similar to...

Found the answer elsewhere, Concours forum helped out. Points forward, tab on bracket goes to the engine side of the valve cover tab, and the screws go from the inside out...

Think the lower ends of the bores are machined/cast to clear the 302 crank ( a minor "stroker") So think you would need to machine a 289 block to stroke it to clear the crank/rods. Which "could" be done??? Just extra cost.

Does anyone have a photo of the correct install of the extension that screws to the tab on the valve cover? C code, late April '68 build date. I think it faces forward, but am not sure, and I am unsure if there is a defined correct installation, as to which side of the tab on the valve cover...

I believe Mike may be correct and the small sizes that the threads are basically interchangeable. You may just want to test a standard US bolt and see if it fits the "nut". If you are missing the entire assembly, while not cheap the mount kits have all the parts to mount the lights...

... and on the shock tower issue can't say I have seen it. Have 3 big blocks and the C code GTCS, all accepted a Export brace as almost a "drop in" add. Abuse and rust seem to be the main players here in my view. Many of these cars have lasted 50-ish years with no issues. And on a mild build...

Just did mine. In line with a lot of the above, as a VIN stamped block/c4 took it all back to near stock...

GT/CS book say Whitworth threads. No size given...

Cool, thanks very much.....

Cool I assumed so. Rob if you can still confirm with your guru it would be appreciated. Thanks!.

Thanks Rob. I have the ~$200 worth of Type F ready to go. Runs about $60+ for 5 litres, have 15 litres on hand (thems 15.85 quarts!) :smile: Yes, new motor. It is a very mild build (basically a stock C code), expecting a massive 197 Hp at the flywheel if I am lucky!. :wink: As I am not sure...

So stressing about work related crap in the middle of the night, so to side-track myself start thining of the next things to do to finish the GTCS and get it back on the road... as posted engine and trans in... so what next... connect driveshaft, connect rad/carb/etc.. connect/check wiring...

Engine rebuilt did the transmission too... good day today getting both back in the car. Put the engine in first on its own, took me 20 minutes. A friend came over later and helped me slide the c4 under the car and we used a floor jack to get it in place. A couple bolts from the engine stand to...

And the aluminium ones just don't fit as well...

Actually just saw this, new to me... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Midland-Major-Brake-Booster-Repair-Kit-Mustang-1967-70-/361001758398?hash=item540d61aebe $215 for a kit to DIY, vs $250/300 and your core for a reman! :wink:

So... whats the rush? You say "getting close to taking the booster out to send for the rebuild " so.... July, August... is there a deadline? Booster Dewey does great work... used them many times. Did you ask if you can just buy one and sell the core? They used to do that, maybe no more...

Thanks...