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Yep, not clear from the ad if its a real Shelby or not. If so its a great candidate for restoration. Roof and rear are white (ish) and the front blue, so maybe a swap of the blue to the car. The grille and front fit loose, which could be added after market parts, or originals. Hard to tell...

Never tried it, but just looking it would appear not. The 69 slips under the dash, which is boxier than the 67-68, and appear to hang much lower. I can say a '68 4 speed one will fit in a '67-'68 automatic quite well! :wink:

Nope, it has been phased out globally. Probably available in some places, "NOS R-12", but for the most part not used due to environmental impact...

I sprayed it with WD40 and it didn't help.... :wink:

A 428CJ Mach???? If you can find a nice complete 428CJ Mach for 20-25k (market for a C or J GTCS in really nice shape) I'd buy it... similar condition car would likely be 50-100% more than a GTCS (rare R or S code excluded, they would be a close comp to the 428 Mach) 428 Mach restored in...

GT350 project ~$40-50k ('67 or '68, '65-'66 can go near 100k). GT500 ~$50k+ GT500KR ~60k+. Assuming an "almost all there" car, and the luck of being the first to find it. They get snapped up fast, usually by word of mouth, not ads. Bare shells go for less, but all are few and far between...

Go for the 8 track!!!! :wink:

Interesting. I guess folks look at an "engine build" as a "paint job", and can one-size-fits-all a price without knowing what is included or final quality (or assume!)! To each their own, I'd suggest more questions on the "what ifs", but up to you.

Lee, great info and a favour to ask. I have worked up a '68 master color coded wiring diagram and have some info on the lights noted, but not a lot (as you note not well documented). Would you be able to send a sketch of what you found so I can add it to the diagram I have developed??? Or I...

Specifically what is being done, hard to say on a "rebuild"? Block checked for true, decked, honed/bored (torque plate used or not?) if needed? Line bored/honed main caps or reuse as-is? Degree the cam or sight install? Heads reconditioned? Cranks checked and ground if required? New...

Hmmm.... define "healthy" I've had used originals, clean unused OEMs, and new repros go all "flashy" with some halogens in the GTCS...

Unfortunately this may be your solution: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13905-Brake-Distribution-Block-Proportioning-Valve-Assembly-Disc-Power-Brake-Repro-1968-1969-Mercury-Cougar-1968-1969-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=78 Maybe WCCC can strip one of the fittings from an old trashed...

Nice look. Looking at doing the same. Does anyone have a dimensioned drawing to show where to mount the little added bracket for the door pull handle screws?

No sin, but won't have an original look for sure... relays are usually required for Halogens as well.

Still a C code. Some info here: http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange2.html

Thanks....looks like I have the right one. :smile:

Did the '68 C code use lower saddles that bolt to the frame like the big blocks? The shop installed the rad and there are none, I do not recall if there was a pair there and don't have pics to clarify. Have to pull it anyway as they forgot the side panels....:tongue:

What are we making??? :wink:

Checked two originals, did not measure the restored ones as I know the guy does a lot of filling/sanding. Diameter was 402-406mm for both. 15.866 - 15.984 in. So about 15 7/8". For the finger bumps the thickness on one was 0.958" - 0.973" (a lot of cracking and very worn. The other was...

C code. 2V 289. VIN stamped and pretty complete and correct as far as I can tell.. but I'm just a rookie... Only shot I have handy. The coil is just lying loose on top of the engine as shown.