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Hmmm... not the way mine was. But that does not mean much after 40+ years! Can anyone confirm... C code if it matters.

All quarters would have had the holes. Have not seen reference to sealant in them.

The crush washer should seal the large face, the flared end the other. Check the flats for scarring and the seat for the flare as well... finding a fitting with the thread x flare may be difficult.

IIRC there is not much play in the location of the shaft to dash. Any chance you have pics of the '69 parts before modification? I can then take similar shots of mine (I believe it is a '68) and create "side-by-side" comparisons in a pdf doc, and maybe have it posted here as a reference for...

I use wax and grease remover, rags, a soft plastic body filler type spreader/paddle (for scraping off goo/dirt before wiping (so you don't scour the surface with embedded grit in grease on the rag), and a no-scratch scotch brite (very lightly) for stubborn spots... sometimes in crevices a...

Yes, they were designed to collapse, they are a two piece and the seam is up inside the column. Originally held by a plastic pin that often cracks allowing them to telescope. As for being cut or no, all I can say is this is a 68 tilt I have for reference. It is hard to tell from the angle of...

Second pic looks like the shaft has been cut? Removing the flange to bolt to the rag joint? I have one of each boxed up in the garage, I'll dig them up tomorrow and take a few pics to confirm.

I believe the engine mounts (bracket between insulator and frame) were originally bare metal. Correct? Late San Jose 390 if it matters.

What was the method? I have seen two variants, A small clip, kinda like the transmission line clip holding the two rods together. And another with an "M" clip screwed to the underside of the panel between the trunk lid and rear window. Have also seen a spiral cut piece of "hose" on one...

Very nice.... tidy original...

Well.... a 390 or 428 GTCS could have been a GT too! :smile:

Probably added with the 302/4v...

Anyone got a photo of one, I have a few and am not sure which is correct (or if I even have the right one, or misplaced it in the rubble of multiple cars in pieces!) :undecided If I can't find it, does anyone have one they can part with?

Looks like a very tidy 289/c4. Hard to say if it is a factory GT or not, but looks to have all the correct exterior bits. Nice looking car. VIN puts it very early in production, one of the first 200, but late in that batch... Have to control the urges!!!! :wink: Don't.... need...

Remove it and post pics. If installed correctly the spring forces the contacts apart, as they mount to the baseplate and ring I can't think of any way to get them in backwards, but would have to go look and see...

Can't say, here in Oz we used ones that dip the other way, sealed beam H4's that look close to originals...

I highly recommend the Rocketman version. http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-hrk-all It is a bit more expensive, but is true plug-and-play and has two separate heavy duty relays. I bought 4 and put them on all the 'Stangs, no problems a few years down the track. All that is...

Beautiful work, but the prices look like they match.... $400 for tie rods. No price on control arms... for the concours car, not a daily driver...

This kit is all I have seen, O-rings and copper crush washer. http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/rebuild_kit_brake_pressure_differential_valve-169774-1.html Maybe a new crush washer will fix it.

Do you mean the bushing? Never seen it sold separately. On the centering issue this little tool is a handy helper to keep a switch in place while pedal bleeding.... remove switch, screw in finger tight, bleed, remove and replace switch...