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Upper ball joints can be replaced, both 3 and 4 bolts are available. The trick is finding someone to re-rivet if you want to maintain that look. Some suggest bolts are stronger and more reliable (but maybe they say that as its just easier!) The grease fitting is on the ball joint. Rebuilding...

I don't plan on driving my car at 20,000 ft...! :tongue: :smile: While some benefit may be gained, it can be the start of the "while I am at it". Engine builders love the "race cars us it, so it has to be better" (more expensive parts, more markup for them as profit, to some extent) Better...

Thanks for the info. Marty, is the rubber grommet for the two PS hoses on the 289 you show the same as for the 390, just in a different place? Mine is missing and I need to source a new metal clip (just the U shaped one that holds the rubber, I have the lower) and rubber. May have a spare...

Semi-related question. Would black be correct for a '68 Shelby (early 68 build date) too....??? Or did they get orange/red Koni's?

If it is a driver build it back to OEM, or near, specs. Don't get lost in all the "more HP is better" hype as all it does for a street car is add costs... if your tooling around town at 25-45 mph most of the time, who care what the peak HP at 6500 rpm is? Assuming you are using the stock...

What color would that be, fronts and rears the same?

Yep, ended up finding one of each in the spare-pile-o-parts and the -14 fit the OEM carb. The -15 has a coarser thread, not sure of the application but think I recall seeing it was used on HiPo 289's or 4100's....

Yep, the repros are pretty much useless... waste of $....

Anyone got close up photos of the ends of the moldings and how well the conform to the fender? Have a set of repros and they seem to be a bit off...

Normal stance was "nose up" for the Mustang. The rears tend to sag making older cars look even more so. The red/yellow springs are original, and would indicate a 289. Nice and clean under there, look for other paint spots on suspension, rear springs, and chalk marks on the RH apron (outside...

Yeah, there's a -14 and -15 that look almost the same... thus the question. Think the thread is different. Not sure which one fits the OEM carb. Hate to ship a wrong part halfway around the world...:wink:

Having a hard time finding a reference for the filter. Is it a Motorcraft FG-14C?

Nice find. 289? Other options in addition to the AM and deluxe belts?? Question on the Ivy Gold interior, hard to tell from the pics... but is the dash pad black, or dark green?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-CS-GT-1968-68-ford-mustang-california-special-/380915826359?forcerrptr=true&hash=item58b05a3eb7&item=380915826359&pt=US_Cars_Trucks eBay item number: 380915826359

Thanks. After some significant rework with a tubing bender its now close to the routing shown...

Well... I went back thru a lot of FoMoCo docs. Most call out 9.3, but the '68 sales brochure and Mannel's guide call out 8.7... the beauty of this hobby, not even Ford docs can be trusted to determine what is correct....:undecided

MCA site blocks "outsiders", or a bad link. Can anyone else confirm the routing shown in SD GTCS's pic?

Nope, original VIN stamped 289 from the factory, all very original and have just replaced a later Motorcraft carb with a date correct model....

Have used Meguiar's NXT for the past few years. Easy to apply, wipes off clean without the excessive rubbing some take, and was recommended by the shop that does my body/paint. If it works for the cars they take to Pebble Beach/Newport, its good enough for me...:wink: I do the wax by hand...

I'll stick with the number from the Ford Shop Manual and multiple other Ford related docs and back-in-the-day car mag specs I have over a few random websites... none I have list anything below 9.3:1. MustangTek is a nice site, but riddled with errors and unsubstantiated data...