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:smile: I think they look fantastic!!! :cool:

And hood stripes go on today, just went in and lined them up with the painter... pics later today or tomorrow!!

Well, the lid does (typically, from what I gather) sit up a good 1/4"-3/8" above the end caps if you run a line across the top of the two... fades out with the bright backlights in the booth... but thanks!!

So to add this I am guessing that putting the deluxe door panel on and noting the location of the front pull strap hole would be the best bet for location to drill/file for the addition?

Was referring to the prior comment that "you can't do it wet"... post #3 above. I tried it dry as there are different opinions on the issue on various posts/forums...

I don't know why that comment was made...

Thanks. In the booth for black hood stripes.. adding them, not original but think it will finish off the look quite well.... ties into the interior, side stripes, vinyl roof (factory option) and added after market front valence.

Just did it today. Came out "good" but dry did not lie as flat as the GTCS scoops I did wet. I hinged it marking a dot at the 7/8" down from he edge on the tape at about 6" increments. I split the backing in the middle, folded open about 6" and pulled the backing out the bottom at an angle...

Got a few hours Friday afternoon and today in the shop: - package tray in (note to self, next time install it BEFORE the rear window!) - rear 1/4 windows in and adjusted, inner 1/4 trim panels on. - dash pad dyed, installed. Incredibly the two piece trim went on and the screws went in with...

On the two cars I haev gone this far on I wire brushed, then used a scothbrite pad dipped in good quality rust converter. Immediately wipe dry, prep per directions of converter and paint. Personally I've gone away from POR 15 for anything but exhusts and cast iron (brake drums and manifolds)...

well... of course they punched the holes for the door lights. That finessing the question. I'll rephrase it to the intent. When manufacturing the doors the inner skin was stamped. Was this initial stamping different or is it the base for the deluxe door (e.g. can a standard door be used for a...

I don't have the bag any more but think it was a Carpenter. It was Branda's "best" and if there are any thinner/softer ones it would be quite a feat. The seal is far, far more pliable and by the "finger test" compresses much easier and thinner than any of the "C" section types I have...

Know the lid sits high in comparison to the end caps. But I found I needed to shim the striker on the lid down about 1/8" to get it to latch. The latch is full up, exactly where it was before. Based on the old toothed washer dents in the support bracket. Is this a common requirement? I used...

and.... Is there a "deluxe door" my understanding was it was the same base part for both...???

Got a picture? Or even better a pair of pictures showing the two in a similar color pattern?

Marty, can you post a pic of the "extra bracket"? I am adding this interior to the EXP "replibute" and am not sure if I have this part... Is it part 22606, Door Pull Reinforcement Brace?

If no one chimes in before the next couple days I may be able to dig up my parts for the EXP and mock them up on the GTCS at the shop... as I believe the door is the same, just where they mount is different to the stadnrd door arm rest/pull?

Look at McMaster Carr part 8694K63 1" wide, 1/16" thick Neoprene/EPDM strip. $8 for 50 ft. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=r5nc0y

Yep, I used single sided neoprene I found at a local rubber goods shop. I think it was 20 or 25mm wide and 3mm thick (uncompressed). I stuck it to the stainles trim and then screwed the assembly to the body. I don't know if the OEM was double stick or not, but the single seem to work well...

Small payback for all the help others have provided to me... this hobby is too big to be a completly DIY effort! :wink: