Search results

Not interested in molesting the existing parts, hate drilling holes where the factory did not. So will install in the order required. Leaving the tracks as-is is not a problem. Will shop around for a good filler material and install the stripes first and then the windows...

Have completed the vinyl top and headliner. Was going to do the rear 1/4 windows next but then realized the side scoops need to go on before that. Which lead to the stripes... Should the stripe be put on the scoop off the car, to get a good rear edge wrap? Or can they be done after the scoop...

Thanks, there were some on mine, thought they were original, but just wanted to be sure...

Thin fine fiberglass mat. JB/epoxy will not work well and eventually let go again, based on my experience. If it is inside the lighted box sanding and reapplication of flocking will effectively hide the repair to all but the most intense inspection...

Did the screws the hold the 6 "cupped" metal panels to protect the taillight wiring get the grey plastic protectors on the screw tips in the trunk, as were used on the standard 68's?

A few more hours this evening and calling it done... goes back in tomorrow...

The question is about the external finish. It was in the car, running fine as a daily driver and just want to clean the outside before reinstalling.

Does anyone have a photo showing the correct installation?

Anyone got a template of OEM dimensions?

mmmm..... the shield I have needs a good stretch to get to the inboard two holes on the fiberglass panel... (not that that means it is anywhere near close to OEM dimensions!) :wink:

Fix a crack in the machined brass block? Not likely. If you want original, just scan Ebay they are pretty available... at $150-250 depending on condition...

Was going to swap out the tank in the "refreshed" GTCS. But them when looking at it saw a date stamp... original tank in "good" shape. A few hours of acetone, turpentine and wax and grease remover and its cleaning up OK. Any recommendations on a final surface treatment to brighten up the...

Was going to swap out the tank in the "refreshed" GTCS. But them when looking at it saw a date stamp... original tank in "good" shape. A few hours of acetone, turpentine and wax and grease remover and its cleaning up OK. Any recommendations on a final surface treatment to brighten up the...

??? Talking about the rubber light shield, not the lamp assembly.

You can buy them from Hansen Rivet Co http://www.hansonrivet.com/ If you want the rivet squeezer the Tatco Hansen sells is nice, http://www.hansonrivet.com/hand-rivet-squeezers.htm ... but the Cleaveland Aircraft one is the bees knees... really, really nice tool. Used the Tatco for a few...

Yep, figured the repro '67 grille was not correct, but did not want the open holes where the old rivets held the brace in place so reused them. As the brackets were repros with no holes just drilled them to match. If I had OEM brackets I would have used the correct locations and filled the...

FAM shows the install, but looks like one was never installed on mine... no holes above the valence for the mounts. And the repro fits kinds funny, not sure if they were used with the GTCS as the tail panel seem to interfere with the mount screws. Anyone got photos of an OEM installed?

Thanks. Actually it wasn't too bad. The rear 1/4's are a bit tricky but I've found getting the sides and ends clipped above the doors and widows, pulling up the "teeth" to just below horizontal, pull the panel down, then work forward, then to the back, repeat a few time snugging it up, and in...

A tip I like to do, not original but finishes off the cap-to-panel, cut a strip of the headlight bucket to fender seal and wrap it over the edge. Protects the paint and trims it off pretty subtly, most don't even notice...

Truss head. Believe the spacing on these are off from OEM, but lined up with the holes in the repro '67 grille I used to fake the look...