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Quick sketch, as can be seen by going out about 3/4" each side you about double the surface area for bonding... And I just realized the calc is off, the ratio should be even higher, that is based on a single flat-cut surface, not the entire rounded area of the material, but I'm too lazy to do...

Thanks, that is kinda what I thought. Just aging. On the crack repair, I have done a few standard '68 wheels. On the repair, here's my take (which may or may not apply to your fixes). Most of the write-ups I see show cutting the old crack at 90 degrees to the wheel. This leaves the bonding...

Actually those prices are not too bad for a clean original. Repros run $200-300. Have not used either vendor noted. One key thing to look at is the thickness of the glass. Some repros are quite a bit thinner and can be hard to seal. Originals are about 9/32" (7mm) thick. Have seen repros...

Yep, after banging many on blocks of wood for hours, fabbing up a nipple and some caps and using the gun makes it a 15 second job to get a stuck shuttle out... :wink: Glad it helped.

Yep, but it provides no real details. The Mustang Monthy article referenced is a typical 60% "how to". A good starting point but limited... (and using duct tape for the silver strip?) Was looking for other inputs/experiences, but it appears this is black art. On a semi-realted question I...

Yep, but at $500-700 (prices I've seen) for the restoration, plus shipping between the US and Oz (3 times, here, there and back) at $100+ a pop I'm interested in trying. Plus the sunk core cost ($300+ seems to be the going rate). $1000, over the core cost, seems kinda spendy for a steering...

Anyone have tips tricks and experiences on redoing the woodgrain and the mylar stripe?

Interesting, assumed none was there as there is no mention of it in the pictures or parts list in the '68 Unique Shelby Parts booklet...

Maybe as a Ford line item the GTCS had more thought put into "comfort" and the strips added to lower the potential for dings or rattles between lid and end caps. And Shelby was more "performance" oriented and did not worry about such things.... ???

+1 on 1/4" sounding way too thick...

A member here (powell) sent me some insert material. A bit thicker then the original but looks like it will work really well. Initially made a paper cutout by tracing the mesh, a bit hard as its not a smooth surface. And hard to retrace. So changed tack, and just flipped the mesh and...

Here are some shots of the baseplate and how the tab mounts to the dash. This uses the bolt/nut as called out by the FAM. AFAIK the second hole in the baseplate nearer the switch was not used, at least on the Mustang.

The FAM calls out a zinc dichromate bolt and nut, not the screw commonly seen. My 68 S GT coupe and the GTCS have the tapping screw, both San Jose cars.

Thanks...

Yep, have the 67-68 version. Out of curiosity what is the overall length of the OEM you show, wondering if the repro is just too short. It is a masticated rubber one, not the smooth version. Thanks for the info...

The green on the taped up lines is the etch primer. The arm is what was on the car, most likely since about 1972, based on some receipts and date stamps on the bumper arms. Appears to have had a front ender about then and the front left fender, bumper arm and a few other parts had FoMoCo...

Yes, that is the one. I bought a few from Pete a while back. Mine had no clip anywhere near where it is supposed to attach to the wheel well... did yours?

Hmm... no holes in the center location on mine... and the shield is far too short to span the inner lower tail panel ones... to drill or not to drill.....

Nice part, but does not install properly. The clip to hold the harness to the wheel well was missing, and the clip to hold it to the front door jamb was also AWOL. Ended up taping new ones to the harness to hold it, not what one expects from a $200+ harness... mildly disappointing.... :tongue:

Front and rear glass in, rear trims done. The stainless polished up quite nice. Front suspension going in. Drilled for the Shelby drop today and hope to get it all in Thursday.....