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So have you considered providing them without welds and let the buyer deal with it? Seems even a good repro with no welds is better than none...??? Or outsourcing the welding as it would seem to be minor work (relatively speaking, I can't weld at all) and a good welder could knock out a few...

You are using the pressure of the system, and the open end on the other side (if you know which it is) to emulate a leak and push the switch back to its original position. Basically you just push the pedal lightly until the light goes off. as you have found it is a fine line. If it is well off...

Yep, that is what I was looking at, not too sure about punching them onto the door like that though....

And it is actually a pretty good repro.... http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/knob_clock_adjusting_repro-102086-1.html

Can you post some pics of how they are mounted? Or PM me and I can get you an email address? Been looking at this for the next project, the EXP, and in looking at the pair I have it is going to take some work to get them to fit... photos of those may be helpful.

About $150-200 is what nice OEM ones seem to be going for these days....:wink: the newish repros look quite nice, but almost as much, IIRC around $125.

"fluid squirts out". Where? Not normal under operation... if you mean with the lid off, bound to happen, need to cap it before bleeding. Probably shot seals in the master cylinder. The rears should gravity bleed if they do not, possibly blocked lines...

Depending on backspacing the 225's can be real tight in the front. I run 205's on mine, 215's on the convertible. Depends on the look you want. IMO I'd go with the smaller sizes.

After market setup, probably best to just go to a local exhaust shop and have them fab one up if you want custom. Or look into Magnaflow, Flowmaster, Pypes, etc..

There is also the engine oil/temp feed and heater motor...

NPD sells nice repros. Use two sets on my 390's. Still debating whether I put the single pipe setup back on the GT/CS or modify it with a stock 289 dual setup. But it will come from them either way. http://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Complete_Systems-2864-1.html

Best to invest $20 or so in the Osborn Electrical Factory Assembly Manual http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_electrical_assembly_manual_68-138089-2975.html

My "helper"... has a hard time using the camera so few shots of me! :wink:

It actually goes on very thin and very smooth. It basically is a "skin". Interesting concept, I've used it on small items and the downside is it is not very durable. I'd guess if you hung your ram out the door, and areas of regular contact would scuff and degrade pretty quick. have seen a...

On cleaning all I can say is mine worked/works great. It does take a few days to adjust speed, that part is fiddly. And they don't keep great time, and will stop if the cars sits off for a while. But that is part of the charm of a 60's car! On the quartz, depends on the movement, the OEM;s...

The shop that did my cluster cleaned the clock, adjusted it and it works fine. They are pretty reliable. Not sure about costs there but the cost to convert here was about the same as cleaning and restoring, so I'd suggest looking into keeping it original as once they are converted no real...

Have heard the Jeep one works well. Afgter market quartz ones are pretty readily available and look almost identical to OEM. On the albums, someone shuld be able to ID them! :wink:

Well... it is a '67 "tach" (C7ZF) in a '68 cluster. :wink: It sure looks pretty unmolested and the guy I bought it from got it years ago for a '67 project and never used it, then sold the car... He picked it up as-is so could not provide any clarity about specifically what it came out of...

Name those 3 albums! :smile:

Yep, found it here in Brisbane 20 mins from home. Expensive, but as an apparently unmolested original with clock figured I couldn't pass it up... I'll let it be! :wink: Interesting how well the vinyl applique fits, as the reporo are so far off as to be alomst unuseable...