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That's why I have 3 "spare" complete '68 390 OEM air cleaner setups. I see one at a good price, I buy it... not making any more and as repros generally bring less figure even if they do get made OEM will only hold value... unlike the stock market! FE trade bait or future resale. Think this is...

Price reflects the rarity and lack of a repro. One year only part. As such, a low demand item and tooling and costs would be prohibitive, as casting a repro is a large investment in tooling, etc. Just the door goes for $50-70 as a repro. The mounting bracket does come up from time to time...

bracket, http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-FORD-MUSTANG-FLOOR-CONSOLE-RADIO-SUPPORT-BRACKET-ASSEMBLY-/161046709213?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257f21c3dd&vxp=mtr Backplate...

Yep, or a piece of crud keeping the needle from seating. Replace the needle and seat and reset the float, should be good to go...

May 68 build PBF covers. VIN stamped engine.

As a "Shelby" part OEM is pricey and hard to find. I lucked into one a few years ago, $350, with damage. Cracked off ends/lower mounting tab which required some repair, so a clean original would likely be at least that... Check with Perogie or Branda, troll Ebay. I just got an OEM trunk lid...

Booster Dewey is great. Bought quite a few from him, zero problems and always good communication...

Sent this: Was the car in an accident? RH and LH rear 1/4's do not match, no hood locks, missing side scoops, wrong fog lights...? Can you provide the VIN so I can verify that it is a true GT/CS? Will post any reply.

Its a door data tag, not the VIN tag. Possibly a Marti repro as it looks very clean. Could see someone clear coating to protect the original paint, but devalue the car IMHO... Nice looking car, would like to see the dealer docs for the tri-power!

Should be the same console or not. I added a 4 speed console to my C code/C4 (it fits over the auto shifter bezel quite well) and the radio pulled out of the non-console bezel and then right into the console... Post pics.

" SUMMARY: Illegally removing or altering a vehicle identification number (VIN) or selling or possessing a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part with an altered or removed VIN constitutes a crime in most states. In order to impose liability, state courts normally require a culpable mental state on...

Install a relay to eliminate the flickering. Some LED's required a different flasher can as the load is sto low to trigger the OEM style.

Buy a relay kit from Rocketman. Can be installed quite easily so it can't be seen, no cutting, if it fails you can plug back into the OEM in about 1 minute. I put them on all my Mustangs and the headlights are brighter and no more rev related brightness variations or overheating switch...

Booster Dewey.... http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/

Rear side script on only one side? Very odd. Looks like a clone...

I know of two in Brisbane. 5-6 seems very low... as US 60's cars are quite popular...

The rivet issue is a red herring, pop rivets are fine, no one willl call you on it at a DMV (if they remove your dash pad to l ook). Check these guys out, they will reproduce, and if a corroded original is replaced no fraud or intent to decieve is in play so the technical (and never ending)...

Yep, keep forgetting the 289 was only 2V C code in 68...

Swap in some points, retest. Will let you know if the Pertronix is the issue. They can go bad, but mine dropped in and has run perfectly for about 8 years...

No silver (unless a special order paint), stripes would be GT/CS side stripe or hood (w/louvered, would be a low gloss black), no rear discs, no leather in '68. 289 4v is an option, would have an A as the 5th character of the VIN. Front discs and power steering were options. If a modified A...