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CS and Shelby tail panel are the same part. As are the trunk lid and end caps. Sequentials were not used on the GT/CS. And, I think, had had different wiring to the rear than the Shelby. There in no metal on the fiberglass tail panel if that is what you are referring to. Only flanges I can...

San Jose was very good at removing build sheets. Have never found a build sheet in a '68 San Jose car... still hoping Kevin Marti does them someday...

Do not think either had a back. But did see these... Not sure if they are originals or not.

Tilt vs standard. Tilt on left. Thinner, shorter, different form at upper end (flat vs "T") and clip in a different place.

They "enlarge" but not a great amount... the scoops appear to be fabricated with the cutout, but hard to tell. To get the inner panel out;: - Push back on the front edge of the rear seat bottom, lift, remove - Remove 2 screws holding seat back lower edge to body, lift up and remove - Remove...

interesting. hard to see the tiny phots (at leat on my monitor). The windows tend to stick up a tiny bit, but not as much as you show, the limit of the window stopped by the duct. Hard to tell from the photos how the duct connects to the scoops, and if they are trimmed out GT/CS or the open...

I am not sure... posted, then looked further at some ref materials that conflicted. The GT/CS book says Shelby and GT/CS scoops differed, due to the opening. But then looked further into the '68 Shelby's and most sites dealing with Shelby's (and a few folks I know the rep of and trust) post...

Yeah, but Shelby's back-in-the-day were fastbacks with no rear 1/4 window to deal with, as on a GT/CS! :wink: On the Sara car, I take it someone manually carved out the face of the scoop too? Or are they actual Shelby style, slight differences in the two AFAIK. As with interior duct work...

Interested in the inside aspect, been considering this on a project and wondering how to accomodate a scoop/shoud in the rear 1/4 window area...

All my '68s have them, and the two spare columns I have have them too, only one tilt...

Bilstein street valved. Bought a set for the convertible, liked them so much I bought 3 more for all the other ponies.

Well, on "most" being original... all I can say is every car I've had has had a replaced tank... 40+ years is a long time and a combination of worn springs and speed bumps damages a lot, and if they sit rust inside is a not uncommon result. As for the blue on the underside in front of the...

Yep, know they run more, was just not sure if my recollection was correct as to when the changeover occurred!

Too bad, sounds like a well intentioned enthusiast that got in over his head by trusting a marginal shop...

Jacking my own thread.... Is that 3 bolt OEM, thought the '68's used the 4 bolt UCA?

"D" = Location (optinal not on all parts). Locations are; A = Chicago, IL B = Buffalo, NY C = Cleveland (Walton Hills), OH D = Dearborn, MI M = Monroe, MI W = Woodhaven, MI The 4 31 7 could be a mis stamp, 3 17? Not sure why a stray 4 would be there?

At $10k and the description above sounds like its worth half to 2/3 of asking. And "Never any rust. " but bad cowls??? Howzat work? New paint and bad cowls... not a good combo...

It will not be on all tanks, and could be almost anywhere on the tank... if there.... date codes are probably more consistent.

stolen from the web...

and here... http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/concours-forum/556391-gas-tank-logo.html