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Rusty one looks like the ones of my auto/pdb 68's...

Print doesn't update quite as fast as the web. :wink: The book will likely never be revised as the author gave the records to a museum, locked them up, and moved on. And as copyrighted material it can not just be copied to the webernet. (Well it "could"... as in this day and age the concept...

http://store.cobranda.com/mugtreguowma.html

Yep, I'd bet you need 1 3/4", I did the same thing on my 68 S GT coupe... 2" pads, wheels jammed up on installing the drums.

Forgot drilling the hood, replacing the full grille, adding Lucas lights and fog light wiring (a PITA job to do right), removing the badges and bondo/weld (repaint the fender, now you've nearly repainted the entire car....). I'd be surprised if a couple days work were "nothing" to a dealers...

Yep, "could" be... worn items allowing play. Suggest getting it on a lift and taking a good look...

Lots of after market and service replacement styles. I have 3 or 4 different ones...

Just stumbled across this on the web in a few places... has anyone used them? Do not look quite correct as they seem to have the dynamite sticks, and be more Shelby then GT/CS...

I keep hearing folks say that, but have never seen it. I guess if you left dirt on the car and rubbed it around, but here in Brisbane its pretty dry and dusty and I've had my cover on and off regularly (2-14 times a week) for 7 years and the paint shows no scratches... same on the S GT coupe...

correct '67's are also a very resell able item, as I think they were a one year only.

$329!!! For a few dollars of circuit board and a few LED's... ouch. :undecided You can go with Scott's OEM look for about the same price! (I did!)

Yep, cutting an OEM good condition big block rad would be a shame. Someone will buy it, if correct and repairable.

Sure about the body color on standard rims w/hubcaps? Most I've seen were black... As noted get a Marti report to verify, it will list all factory options. Shelby rims "could" have been dealer provided (anecdotal evidence I have seen indicates they were even hard to get from a dealer in...

I wouldn't suggest a convoluted hose from side-to-side. I think they do make opposite hand inlet water pumps, but the cost of that plus hoses, plus hassle may be more than selling the FE radiator and just buying a correct small block version.

Would availability and cost of the Shelby specific items and the extensive repaint really be a value add to move a convertible? All the fiberglass, tail panel lights, grille, hood cutouts, wiring (less hassle if it had fogs already, but still need the new taillamp harness at a minimum to run...

Yep, I am absolutely sure. Originally they had a small rubber cap. Not painted, other than body color. They hold the wiring to the side of the tail panel, usually on the left where the main loom comes in over the wheel arch, and then the up to the upper edge of the panel. Also on the right...

You have too much cool stuff... :wink:

And in looking at the photos, it appears that the original zip tie had a tab, similar to those on the wiring harness, to attach it to an existing 9or line drilled?) hole in the tail panel? Have not seen these before, heard reference to them, do you know of a source for a pair and a couple spares?

Impressive stuff... thanks for the excellent info! (and I stole your photos for reference as the EXP is going to get sequentials...) :smile:

That is the retainer tab for the wire loom. There is a series of them along the upper edge of the tail panel as well. You can see a few in the first pic I posted. On my cars the one on the side do not have any holes. Not sure if that is how the Shleby's mounted them or not... the Shelby...